After completing Shanghai Story Walk III, we hopped on Line 2 Metro from the Jing'an Temple station to the Jiangsu Lu station. The Shanghai Story Walk IV ("Murder is Easy"), from the book Shanghai Story Walks by Yvette Ho Madany, takes us through the western section of the former French Concession.
If you first walk north on Jiangsu Road, you reach No. 155:
Presently it is the only all-girls school in Shanghai:
building designed by László Hudec, which may be the building on the right, above.
Walked south on Jiangsu Lu, passing an old-time Chinese Traditional Medicine Pharmacy:
The Radisson Plaza Hotel:
Villa No. 2, a Victorian coastal-style architectural construction with three three-vent chimneys:
Built in 1934 for George Swire of the Butterfield and Swire Company, a steamship agent. He wanted a mansion as grand as his rival, Henry Keswick, of Jardine Matheson. Swire attended the completion ceremony for the house, but then left Shanghai, never to return. The villa was designed by Clough William-Ellis, a Welsh architect who never came to China, because he was too busy. Because of the copper roof, it was often called the "Copper House," and sometimes as the "Ice Cream Man's House," since the head of Hazelwood Ice Cream once rented it.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, private home owners had to pay property taxes, and the Swire house was given to the government in lieu of paying taxes. Former Shanghai mayor Chen Yi stayed here, as well as Chairman Mao.
Across the street at No. 67 Xingguo Road:
Since many of these villas are still private homes, or belong to the government, they are sometimes hidden behind tall walls and solid gates.
No. 893 Huashan Road, the former residence of Guo Dihuo:
Here a man is mowing the lawn, as is usually done, with a weed whacker:
No. 849 Huashan Road:
Back out on Huashan where we crossed Wukang Road and continued to No. 831:
At this point, although not mentioned in the book, you should go across the street to Lane 868 Huashan Road. When you walk into the driveway of the apartment complex, a guard will come out and give you a business card size piece of paper with a map directing you to the Propaganda Poster Art Centre. This is one of the "museums" that should not be missed.
Now we turned left onto Wukang Road. At the corner is No. 2 Wukang Road:
A really shiny doorway at No. 12 Wukang Road:
No. 67 Wukang Road:
No. 1, Lane 40 Wukang Road:
Tang's death caused disquiet with older Kuomintang leaders, so to cover up the deed, it is said that Chiang Kai-shek had the government pay funeral expenses and include Tang's name in the government's history archives. Later the family friend who participated in the assassination became paranoid and was checked into a mental hospital. The doctors reported that he kept a pistol, and when the police came to investigate, he brought out the gun, but was shot by the police.
No. 99 Wukang Road:
When we came to Fuxing Xi Road, we decided to take a lunch break at Boxing Cat Brewery:
Not on the Walk, No. 109 Wukang Road:
No. 115 Wukang Road:
Across the street from the apartments was a walled in villa at 262 Hunan Road, bought in 1943 by Zhou Haifu, the treasury secretary under Wang Jingwei, leader of the puppet government during Japanese occupation. Three years later Zhou died in prison in Nanjing.
Shanghai's first mayor, Chen Yi, lived here, as did He Zizhen, Chairman Mao's second wife (married in 1928) who lived until 1984. They had three sons and three daughters, with only one known to survive to adulthood. Some died in childhood and others were given to peasants to care for them during the Long March and were not found again.
Another villa that could not be photographed was No. 1 and 2 at 117 Wukang Road:
Ferguson Lane at 376 Wukang Road:
No. 393 Wukang Road:
We were able to go inside the building, in the Art Deco wing:
No. 395 Wukang Road:
The My Landiao shop window of Miao culture at 411 Wukang Road:
signed by László Hudec.
Today we left in the middle of the Walk and headed home on Tianping Road, passing the popular Jesse Restaurant:
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Picking up where we left off on the Shanghai Story Walk IV, by continuing east on Huaihai Zhong Road.
The next stop is No. 1843, the former residence of Song Qingling. We have been here before and did not make a repeat visit:
The museum here contains letters between the Song sisters, who wrote in English. The two older girls, Ailing and Qingling, studied at Wesleyan College in Macon ,Georgia, and the youngest, Meiling, went to Wellesley College in Massachusetts.
Ailing worked as Sun Yat-sen's English secretary, and when she got married, her sister Qingling took over the job. Qingling fell in love with Sun, and they married in Japan in 1915. Qingling's parents were not happy, since Sun was 26 years older and in fact a friend of Qingling's father, and Sun was still married when he met Qingling.
After Sun Yat-sen died in 1925, Qingling left China in 1927 when the Kuomintang expelled the Communists. She returned, but left again in 1937 when the war against Japan began. In 1939 she was in Qongqing when she founded the China Defense League, which became the China Welfare Institute, involved in care of women and children. Even though she had no children of her own, Qingling was considered the "Mother of the China."
Qingling supported the Communist Party, even though her sisters were pro-Nationalists (sister Meiling was married to Chiang Kai-shek). She played a major political role in the early years of the People's Republic of China. She was admitted to the Communist Party only two weeks before her death in 1981.
Next at No. 1 Lane 1818 Huaihai Zhong Road:
The next two stories deal with properties that have been torn down, and are marked only by a plaque:
Passed an interesting building at No. 1753 Huaihai Zhong Road:
When Chiang Ching-kuo lived here in 1948, his job was to stabilize the economy. His methods were to force people to hand in gold, silver and foreign currencies for paper money and freezing prices on goods. This policy did not work, and the Kuomintang's control collapsed and they lost the support of the people.
There are also stories of Chiang Ching-kuo's Russian wife, and of twin sons borne by his secretary.
No. 1517 Huaihai Zhong Road:
There are several more stories involving the Sheng family, from daughters encouraged by the Song sisters to fight for a share of the inheritance that was passed only to the sons, to T.V. Song falling in love with a Sheng sister.
No. 1469 Huaihai Zhong Road:
After 1949, the All China Women's Federation used the house. During the Cultural Revolution it was a center for political education. Later it was a government guesthouse until 1980 when the United Stated leased it for their consulate.
That is the end of Walk IV.