Wednesday, July 13, 2016

More Montmartre (7/12/2016)

Tuesday, July 12, 2016 (continued)
We wandered around Place du Tertre, where it was early still, before the hordes of tourists and artists.
A portrait artist near Place du Tertre (KSS)
Place du Tertre (KSS)
Place du Tertre: Restaurant À la Mère Catherine (1793),
where Russian Cossacks in 1814 would bang the table
and shout "bystro!" (Russian for quickly), and thus
is the legend for why small French
restaurants are called bistros (KSS)
Place du Tertre: Starbucks (KSS)
Place du Tertre: Artists
Place du Tertre: Delivery truck crowding the artists (KSS)
#1 Place du Calvaire doors, site of the
former workshop of Maurice Neumont (KSS)
L'Espace Dalí (KSS)
Graffiti-ed niche (KSS)
Café La Bonne Franquette (15C), often
visited by Diaz, Pisarro, Sisley, Degas, Cézanne,
Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Monet, Zolam
and van Gogh (KSS)
Entrance to the garden behind the Café La Bonne Franquette,
called La Guinguette, which was a subject of Vincent van Gogh (KSS)
A Galerie d'Art for sure! (KSS)
#12 Rue Cortot, former residence of Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and
later of Maurice Utrillo and his mother Suzanne Valadon;
now the Musée Montmartre (KSS)
#6 Rue Cortot, was the residence of Erik Satie
who composed for piano the Trois Gymnopédies (1888,
a gymnopédie was an ancient Greek dance
performed by nude men) and who had an affair with
Utrillo's mother just a couple doors away (KSS)
Houses on Rue Cortot (KSS)
Clos Montmartre vineyard, the last vineyard in Paris (KSS)
View of the Café au Lapin Agile (terra cotta color),
another hot-spot for the likes of Picasso, Renoir, Utrillo, Modigliani,
Toulouse-Lautrec, Paul Verlaine, and Aristide Bruant (KSS)
Au Lapin Agile painting by humorist André Gill,
which was a pun on his name (KSS)
La Maison Rose, a subject for Utrillo (KSS)
#49 Rue Gabrielle, a former workshop of Picasso (KSS)
Interesting house at #19 Rue Ravignan (KSS)
#13 Place Emile Goudeau, aka Le Bateau-Lavoir/the Boat Laundry,
which was a former piano factory converted to cheap housing
where up to 10 artists lived and worked, including Picasso (KSS)
Model on the left, photographer on the right (KSS)
Engagement photos (?) in front of 19C artist studios (KSS)
Moulin/Windmill Radette (1717) was moved over
the Restaurant Le Moulin de la Galette (KSS)
Looking down Rue Tholozé (KSS)
Artist studios on Rue de l'Armée d'Orient (KSS)
#5 Rue Tourlaque, former residence and
studio of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, who due to a syndrome
easily fractured his legs and they stopped growing (KSS)
#54 Rue Lepic was the home of Theo van Gogh,
where Vincent van Gogh lived with his brother in
1886-1888, on the top floor with a view of the city (KSS)
Charming Restaurant le Basilic (KSS)
From the bottom of Rue Tholozé, you can see
Moulin Blute-Fin (1622), which was the scene
of Renoir's Bal du Moulin de la Galette, and it has
been renamed the Moulin de la Galette (KSS)
Cobbler's display (KSS)
See the little cobbler use the hammer:
video

Église St-Jean l'Evangéliste/Church of St John
the Evangelist (1894-1904) by Anatole de Baudot
in Art Nouveau style (KSS)
Métro station Abbesses entrance with a glass édicule/canopy
designed by Hector Guimard in Art Nouveau style, which was
moved here from the station Hôtel de Ville in 1974;
one of only two originals left in Paris (KSS)
Another view of the Métro station Abbesses entrance
Le mur des je t'aime/I Love You: the Wall (2000),
initiated by Frédéric Baron who collected the written
phrase in over 300 languages, which were copied by
calligrapher Claire Kito; the red bits are pieces of a heart (KSS)
Fromagerie/Cheese shop (KSS)
Poissonnerie/Fish shop (KSS)
Café des deux Moulins, known as a film location for
the 2001 French film Amélie (KSS)
Inside the Café des deux Moulins
Poster for the Amélie film; every face on a poster
or wall advertisement had French flags painted on
the cheeks, just like most French fans at the
European Soccer Championship games
At the Café des deux Moulins, we enjoyed
crêpes; Nutella for Kent and chestnut for me
Now we are at the foot of Montmartre: Le Moulin Rouge nightclub
(1889) was popular for its amateur night when working girls danced
the Quadrille/CanCan, a dance that originated in Montparnasse
in the polka gardens of Rue de la Grande-Chaumière (KSS)
All-in has a different meaning here, on Boulevard de Clichy (KSS)
#73 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, perhaps the
location of the first Chez Bricktop, owned by
Ada "Bricktop" Smith, a dancer and singer (KSS)
Place Pigalle, where African American jazz musicians, singers,
dancers, poets, and WWII vets came if they did not want to
return to the segregated USA
Movie poster in the Métro station Barbès–Rochechouart (KSS)
Paris Métro train
We took the Métro back to Châtelet and ticket inspectors were waiting in the corridors. We had multiple tickets, and I had to find the right one to get past! At the hotel we picked up our luggage, and walked underground to the Châtelet-Halles RER station to catch the train to the Charles de Gaulle Airport.
We headed to the check-in desk at the far end of the airport, and a soldier blocked the crowd, telling us to move back. We thought we could go outside to go around the barricade to our check-in, but that was blocked off as well. Apparently there was an unattended bag, and we were moved once again even farther back. After about 20 minutes, we were allowed to go check-in. The longest line was at passport control, making the security line short.
We had salads for dinner before boarding the 16:15 flight to Atlanta. This flight took nine-and-a-half hours, arriving at 19:45. A really long line at passport control, where families used a computer terminal to scan passports. You get a receipt to show at a desk for customs.
We had a couple hours before the 22:35 flight to Cleveland.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016
Arrived in Cleveland about 00:30, and Brynne picked us up for the ride home.
La fin.

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