Sunday, April 2, 2017

Paris to Swiss Alps: Strasbourg (4/2/2017)

Sunday, April 2, 2017
This morning we were docked in Kehl, Germany, with France just across the Rhine River. Our included tour started with a motor coach ride to and through outer Strasbourg. We did the Strasbourg City Tour in 2014.
This time I knew to sit on the left side of the bus to see the storks in their nests in the trees along the Boulevard de l'Orangerie.
Ciconia ciconia/White Storks in the Platanus orientalis/
Oriental Plane trees of Strasbourg; they have become
a symbol representing the tenacity, loyalty
and fidelity of the region’s inhabitants
The male storks return first at this time of year to
reclaim and repair the home he and his spouse left behind,
after a migration from as far away as South Africa
It is said, if a stork is flying above your house, then a baby is on the way. We heard two versions of the joke about the stork family recounting their day: mother had delivered a baby girl to a city dweller, father had delivered a baby boy to a farm, and the smart-aleck son had flown over a convent to scare the nuns.
Strasbourg is the seat of the European Parliament and we drove through the Quartier Européen/European Quarter where many pan-European organizations are located.
Palais de l'Europe/Palace of Europe (1976-1977, designed by
Henry Bernard) that houses the Conseil de l'Europe/Council of Europe
The ship-like "bow" of the Cour Européenne des Droits de l'Homme/
European Court of Human Rights (1991-1994, designed by Richard Rogers)
Louise Weiss Building (1995-1999) houses the Parlement Européen/
European Parliament; the building is meant to appear unfinished as nations
join (and leave); European Union institutions are divided among the cities
of Strasbourg, Brussels, Luxembourg, and Frankfurt
Ligne indéterminée/Indeterminate Line (1990 by Bernar Venet)
in Place de Bordeaux (the square is named in honor of the French
city of Bordeaux for accepting refugees from Strasbourg
during the Franco-Prussian War (1870)
Synagogue de la Paix/Synagogue of Peace
(1954-1958, designed by Claude Meyer-Lévy)
Place de la République with the Le monument aux morts de Strasbourg/
Monument to the Dead of Strasbourg (1936, by Léon-Ernest Drivier);
the woman represents Mother Strasbourg and she holds her two sons,
one German and one French but no longer in uniform to distinguish them,
and at the moment of death they reach to join hands
Strasbourg and the Alsace region had been under German rule, then French rule; back and forth for centuries (it has been part of France since after World War II).
Église réformée Saint-Paul/Reformed Church of
St Paul (1892-1897, designed by Louis Muller
in Neo-Gothic style)
The motor coaches dropped off most of the people at Petite-France, and then went to drop off the Gentle Group (a group of those who benefit from a shorter, less strenuous walking tour) closer to the Strasbourg Cathedral. Because we had done the Strasbourg tour already, we went off on our own.
We saw a couple of these mangled bicycles...
Chocolate art
Kugelhof, specialty cakes of the Alsace, on the left,
are shaped by molds and can be sweet or savory;
it is said they resemble either the turbans of the Three Magi,
or the hats of the Strasbourg parliamentarians of medieval times
Chocolate Easter lollipops
Place des Tripiers/Square of Tripes, formerly
the site of the poor man's market
Window boxes decorated for Easter and Spring
Maison Kammerzell (dating as far back as 1427), a
merchant's home above and shops in the arcades below
Maison Kammerzell detail
Maison Kammerzell door
Rue des Orfèvres (KSS)
More Easter decorations
Église du Temple-Neuf/The New Church
(1874-1877, designed by Emile Salomon in
Neo-Romanesque style) is a Lutheran church (KSS)
Unique façade (c. 1911),
now the Consulate of Peru
The birthplace of Jean-Frédéric Oberlin
(1740-1826), a Protestant pastor who worked to
improve the welfare of his parishioners, both
spiritually and materially, and is considered
the precursor of social Christianity in France;
Oberlin College in Oberlin, OH is named in his honor
Painted façade
Place Broglie (KSS)
Banque de France (1925-1927 in Louis XV style), on the spot where
 Rouget de Lisle sang the "Marseillaise" for the first time on April 26, 1792
Across Place Broglie is the Hôtel de Hanau (1731-1736, designed by
Joseph Massol) that was used as the Hôtel de ville/City Hall 1805-1976
Strasbourg tram
Obelisk (1951 by Georges Saupique) commemorates
WWII General Philippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque
and the Liberation of Strasbourg in November 1944
Opéra du Rhin/Opera of the Rhine
(1804-1822 in French Neoclassical style)
Since we actually saw the back of the old City Hall
on Place Broglie, we attempted to see the front,
but the gate was closed
Same with the Hôtel du Gouverneur Militaire/
Military Governor's Residence (c. 1760)
Street names were in French and German, and the two
names did not always mean the same
L'Archevêché/Office of the Archbishop (1724-1732,
designed by Robert de Cotte in Baroque style)
Hôtel de Klinglin (1732-1736, rebuilt 1871 after 1870 fire)
was designed by Joseph Massol, who also designed the
old City Hall and must have designed the Office of the
Archbishop, since they all look the same!
Villa Greiner (1884, designed by S Revel in Neoclassical style) is the
home of the Musée Tomi Ungerer-Centre international de l'illustration/
Tomi Ungerer Museum and International Center of Illustration
A photo of the tramway to show the grass that
is grown on the track bed to minimize noise
in the city and for aesthetics
Museums in Strasbourg have free admission the first Sunday of the month. We went to the Tomi Ungerer Museum. Tomi Ungerer was born in Strasbourg in 1931, and attended the Strasbourg School of Decorative Arts. In 1956 he moved to New York City, and had his first children's book, The Mellops Go Flying, published in 1957. He contributed cartoons to New York magazines, and created posters against racial segregation and the Vietnam War. He now lives in Ireland, but donated his work and toy collection to Strasbourg Museums. This museum was established in 2007.
Sculpture of Tomi Ungerer (2011)
The ground floor displayed the antique toy collection of Tomi Ungerer, and had a special exibit on children's drawings.
Part of the antique toy collection, including the rare
model battleship "Oregon" from the prestigious brand Marklin
Mechanized antique toy
Part of the special exhibit on children's drawings
Pig Heil (1994)
Portrait of Tomi Ungerer (1990)
by Daniel Depoutot (KSS)
The upper florr exhibited works by other artists.
L'ange avec une fleure noire/Angel with
a black flower (1998) by Peter Knapp
The "basement" floor exhibited Ungerer's erotic works.
Honeymoons are a Menace to Marriages (c. 1960)
We set off again.
Lycée/school (1903 designed by Oberthur)
on rue des Pontonniers
Canal des Faux Remparts/Canal of the False Battlements
Meiselocker (1910 by Ernst Weber)
in Place Saint-Étienne, of a boy whistling
in hopes of catching a bird
Église Saint-Guillaume/Church of St William (15C),
note the rooster weathervane on the bell tower,
which marks this as a Protestant church
Oh, my! Some fancy ceramic ware
Green roof systems are not all that new!
The cloister (c. 1478) of Église Sainte-Madeleine
Mural in rue des Couples (KSS)
A peek in the window of L'atelier de Geppetto/Geppetto's Workshop (KSS)
Façade of Hôtellerie du Corbeau
14C courtyard of Hôtellerie du Corbeau
On rue du Maroquin
On the left: Strassburg, and on the right: Strasbourg
We met our group near the Strasbourg Cathedral, and followed them to the motor coach.
Villeroy & Boch window
Place Gutenberg with his statue (1840,
by David d'Angers) with the inscription:
Et la lumière fut/And there was light,
showing Gutenberg's role in enlightening the world
The largest cheese bell in the world at La Cloche à Fromage
Mosaic on rue des Tonneliers/Street of Coopers
And the motor coaches brought us back to the Viking Hild in Kehl.
The new tramway bridge over the Rhine River

Next: Kehl.

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