Friday, July 8, 2016

Les Andelys (7/8/2016)

Friday, July 8, 2016
A morning to sleep in, if needed as we spent the morning cruising up the River Seine.
Lock in Amfreville-sous-les-Monts (KSS)
There was a 10:00 cooking demonstration (KSS)
Sample crusts for the Tarte au Citron/Lemon Tart (KSS)
The pastry chef, the top chef, and the hotel manager (KSS)
Carlos helps stir the lemon filling, with Peter, Jr wiping his brow (KSS)
After a taste of lemon tart, and lunch, we arrived in Les Andelys.
Les Andelys, actually Petit Andely with Château Gaillard ruins
The Viking passengers divide up into groups for the walking tour (KSS)
We had a climb to get to the castle ruins (KSS)
Great view of the Viking Rolf and the town of Petit Andely
View upriver to the bridge (1948 by M Traverse) and
public swimming pool (KSS)
Hillside beyond Château Gaillard
with teeny people on the ridge (KSS)
Bedrock of the castle, of limestone and flint
The first line of defense on the plateau side of the castle,
with one tower left from the triangular barbican
Evidence of a deep ditch before the second line of defense,
with the closed third line of defense in the background
Remains of a chapel on the left, then another deep ditch
around the third line of defense that had an "embossed" wall
to deflect arrows and projectiles; inside this wall is the keep (KSS)
Château Gaillard was built by Richard the Lion-hearted circa 1197-1198 to prevent King Philippe-Auguste from invading Normandy. Over 6,000 laborers were used to quickly erect the fortress in a year's time, and Richard incorporated elements from the Islamic/Muslim fortifications he encountered during the Crusades, such as round towers instead of square ones.
Richard died in 1199, due to an accidental shot of an arrow, and his brother John Lackland (King John of Robin Hood fame) became King of England. John signed a pact with Philippe-Auguste agreeing to be a vassal to the French king as Duke of Normandy. Philippe-Auguste was then able to confiscate the castle in 1202 for a "minor" indiscretion on the part of King John. Thus Normandy became part of France.
During the Hundred Years' War, the castle changed hands several times. Because the castle was so impregnable, King Henry IV had it dismantled in 1598.
Tamiko in the chapel ruins (KSS)
Kent at one of three wells
We were then given free time.
Heading down into Petit Andely
Stone house with glass canopy over the doorstep
Gargoyle-type head and stones in wall
Église St-Sauveur/Church of Our Savior (13C)
built for the castle laborers
Polychromatic statue of Christ (13C) (KSS)
Louis XIV altarpiece from Mortemer Abbey
(Lisors, France) with grisailles (paintings done
in grays) by Quentin Varis, and a copy of
Adoring Shepherds by Philippe de Champaigne
(we saw the original in the Rouen Cathedral) (KSS)
Transfiguration (17C) by Ambrosius Bosschaert (KSS)
1674 organ by Robert Ingout,
one of France's finest (KSS)
Carved figure bracket and galleries with remains of frescoes (KSS)
On the left, a choir stall with the seat down;
on the right, the seat is raised, but there is a misericord,
a ledge to rest your rear end when standing
Left transept altar
Modern stained-glass window (KSS)
Classic stained-glass window (KSS)
Place St-Sauveur (KSS)
Memorial to Petit Andely native
Jean-Pierre Blanchard, the first to cross
the English Channel in a hot-air balloon
Interesting wall at 37 Rue Grande (KSS)
Hospice Saint-Jacques (rebuilt 1785) for pilgrims
going to Santiago de Compostella in Spain,
now an old folks' home (KSS)
The River Seine where it looks like the Cuyahoga River
House by the stream on Rue de Penhievre
Quai/Embankment Grimoult
Backyard of #7 Rue de Penhievre (KSS)
Mallard ducks (KSS)
Ipomoea sp/Morning Glory
Quai Grimoult (KSS)
Back at the Viking Rolf where crew members play soccer (KSS)
An afternoon cheese tasting (KSS)
The Captain's Farewell Dinner started with Cassoulet de Poulet Parfumé à la Truffe/truffle scented chicken cassoulet with puff pastry shell, forest mushrooms and fresh tarragon, followed by Trou Normand/apple sorbet with Calvados drizzle. The main dish was Noix de St Jacques Caramélisée/caramelized sea scallops with bacon, braised Savoy cabbage, thyme roasted potatoes, port wine sauce. Dessert was Crêpes Suzette & Crème Brulée with berry compote and ice cream. Our dinner companions left and then the Petits Fours arrived!
Petit Fours
Next: Château de Malmaison.

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