Sunday, September 9, 2018

Viking Homelands: Stockholm Finale (9/8-9/2018)

Saturday, September 8, 2018 (continued)
Once the boat from Drottningholm arrived at the dock in Stockholm, we caught the Hop On Hop Off Bus to go to the Vasa Museum. But at the Royal Opera, the driver announced he was going on break. We went to take the next bus that was leaving, but Fernando figured out that if we walked a block over, we could skip the Södermalm loop part of the trip and head directly to Djurgården. I had a picture of Stockholm in my mind, but it was missing an island! So I slowed us up a bit until I saw the map and understood the bus route.
Statue (1868, by Johan Peter Molin) of Karl XII,
who ruled during the Great Northern War,
when Sweden had to protect itself from an
alliance of Denmark-Norway, Poland, and Russia
Behind the trees, replicas of the masts of the ship
Vasa rise above the museum to show how tall it was
The massive Nordic Museum (1888-1907, by
Isak Gustaf Clason in Dutch-Danish Renaissance style)
includes both a museum and library, based on the
collection of Artur Hazelius, who also founded
the open-air museum Skansen
Statue (1905, by Teodor Lundberg) of Orpheus (KSS)
Fernando and Josefina point out the Josefina
"Beach Club" and Restaurant
Gate (by Fredrik Blom) for the
Galärvarvskyrkogården/Shipyard Cemetery
Estoniamonumentet/Estonia Ferry Disaster Memorial
for the victims of the M/S Estonia that sunk in 1994
when its bow visor became unlocked and opened,
allowing water into the ship during a stormy voyage
from Tallinn to Stockholm
Vasamuseets trädgård/Vasa Museum's garden with flowers,
herbs, and vegetables that were grown in the 1600s
Yikes! Messed up again, although we had double-checked the hours of the Vasa Museum. Now it was closing at 17:00, and we had 10 minutes!
The Vasa was a warship, built in 1626-1628 in Stockholm, that was to be a symbol of Sweden's power and prestige. Ordered by Gustav Adolf, he demanded that it be taller than designed for a better vantage from which to fire weapons. It had cannons on two decks, at least twice the usual number of heavy cannons. On its maiden voyage in 1628, the Vasa opened all the gun ports so that a salute could be fired. The sails were raised and ship took off in a light breeze. In a gust of wind, it leaned left, but when the wind stopped the ship was able to right itself. However, when passing a gap in the bluffs, a stronger wind caused the ship to lean to the left enough that water poured into the lower gun ports. There in front of crowds of people, the Vasa sank.
The Vasa from the front
The double levels of gun ports (KSS)
A model of the ship under full sail
Research lab
The ship could not be raised with the technology of the time. It was not until 1961 when the Vasa could at last be lifted out of the water. It was housed in a temporary facility that allowed the public to view the ship while it was being conserved. There was much mud and debris to be removed. In 1987 they began to construct a permanent building, and the ship was towed into it in 1988. The museum was completed in 1990, designed by Marianne Dahlbäck and Göran Månsson.
"Next to God, the welfare of the Kingdom depends on its fleet" (KSS)
Relief map of the battles being waged in 1628 (KSS)
The shipyard was run by Margareta Nilsdotter, who assumed
responsibility when her husband died in 1627 (KSS)
Exhibit: Why the Vasa Sank (KSS)
Models of the detailed, and painted, wood carvings that
decorated the back/stern of the ship
The stern of the Vasa (KSS)
The stern of the model
At 17:00 we were herded out of the museum. We went to catch the Hop On Hop Off Bus.
Colchicum autumnale/Autumn Crocus (KSS)
In Stockholm there are two companies that run a Hop On Hop Off Bus, and one accepted the Stockholm Card and one did not. The "red" bus arrived, and we acted as if we did not know it was the wrong bus, and the driver said we could not use the card on his bus. But then he asked where we were going, and told us to go ahead and take his bus. We were very grateful, and were even more thankful when we learned that the "green" bus had already stopped running for the day!
We were able to go right to the hotel in Haymarket.
Now the sun is shining on the Concert Hall
Orpheus Emerging from the Underworld
(c 1936, by Carl Milles)
The Hotel Haymarket (1882, in Art Deco style)
in the former PUB department store where
Greta Garbo worked 1920-1922
The market was closing down
Flower bouquets at the market
I do not know what the style is of the interior of the hotel!
Hotel room bathroom
Tile art in the shower
We had tried to find a fish restaurant that was recommended by fellow passengers on the boat back from Drottningholm, but it was closed. We went across the street to Pyttirian for dinner.
Pytt i Panna/Hash classic-style
Lobster Roll

Sunday, September 9, 2018
We has a leisurely breakfast, checked out, and went to catch the Hop On Hop Off Bus that was to begin service at 10:00. There was a bus company representative at the stop, who said that we could walk to the bus terminal before the first bus would appear. So we walked the nine or so blocks, found the bus terminal, and purchased the tickets for the Flygbussarna motor coach to the Arlanda Airport, which is 25 miles away. It turned out that we got off at a different terminal than Fernando and Josefina, so we were not able to say goodbye properly! They were flying to Spain.
Having been forewarned by Fernando and Josefina, we ate something before boarding our 13:40 Icelandic flight to Rekjavik, arriving at 15:00 local time. In Reykjavik we bought a sandwich and drinks to take on the 16:50 flight directly to Cleveland. At least the connection was convenient!
Once in Cleveland by 19:15, we had to go through passport control and customs. Brynne was there to pick us up, and we were soon home.

Saturday, September 8, 2018

Viking Homelands: Stockholm Drottningholm II (9/8/2018)

Saturday, September 8, 2018 (continued)
After touring the Drottningholm Palace, we had a short wait to take the Royal Theater tour in English.
Slottsteater/Royal Theater (1764-1766, by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz)
was commissioned by Louisa Ulrika, and is the oldest theater
in the world with its original backdrops and stage machinery
Louisa Ulrika's son, Gustav III, was, among other things, an actor and playwright, and he made full use of the theater. When he was assassinated, the theater was neglected and used for storage. In 1921, a professor, looking for a painting, found 18C costumes, 30 original sets, as well as devices for sound effects. It is the best preserved 18C theater in the world, with the only a thorough cleaning, replacing the ropes on pulleys, and installing electricity to replace 400 candles.
There were bedrooms for the theater director and actors;
this large room was used by Adlecrantz, the architect and superintendant
The wallpaper design was continued on the vent pipe
The painted wallpaper was nailed to the wall
The stage is unusually deep, allowing for optical illusions
of greater perspective or distance in the background
The king and queen had comfortable seats
right up front in the center,while everyone
else sat on benches
There were some private boxes, with trompe l'oeil drapes
painted onto the doors to the boxes
A box that allowed for some privacy, if needed
What looks like carved stone supports is
actually made of papier mâché
A foyer was added in 1791, by Louis Jean Desprez,
which allowed for mingling while a band played
on the balcony above
Faux marble (KSS)
View behind the theater towards the English Garden
An 18C French-style court dress, which would
take up three spaces on the bench! (KSS)
Forte piano where even the inside of the lid is decorated..
...and under the strings! (KSS)
More costumes
More costumes and Kent (photo by Fernando)
Theater prop?! (KSS)
Time for lunch at Karamellan Café & Restaurang /Restaurant at Drottningholm.
Husets Fisksoppa/Fish Soup with räkor/shrimp,
musslor/mussels, torsk/cod & saffransaioli/
saffron garlic mayonnaise
Klassiska Köttbullar/Classic Meatballs with gräddsås/cream sauce,
potatispuré/potato purée, rårörda/ripe lingon & pressgurka/pickle
Swedish Bryggmästarens beer
After lunch, we headed to the French-style gardens.
Fernando, Josefina, and Kent
Copy of statue (by Adriaen de Vries) of Laocoön,
the Trojan priest being punished with his two sons,
by the attack of a serpent
The allée of linden trees, mostly with new trees, but a few originals perhaps
Copy of statue (by Adriaen de Vries)
of Hercules Slaying the Hydra
Approaching the water parterre
Water parterre fountain
Water parterre fountains
Old Quercus robur/common oak (KSS)
Looking back towards Drottningholm Palace
Gustav III added an English-type garden,
and Fernando and Kent are headed to the hill
Sculpture at the top of the hill
Looking back down the hill;
here comes Josefina!
There are four rows of trees in two allées
A side allée to the Chinese Pavilion
Corps de Garde/Guards' "Tent" (1781-1782,
by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz) inspired by Turkish tents
and is made with painted copper (KSS)
Inside the Guards' Tent... (KSS)
One of a pair of pavilions in front of the Chinese Pavilion;
this one was used by Adolf Fredrik for his carpentry studio
One of a smaller pair of pavilions, which was a Billiards
chamber, but now houses the carpentry studio equipment
Adolf Fredrik's carpentry tools
Chinese Pavilion (1763-1769, by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz), which replaced a wooden
structure given to Louisa Ulrika by Adolf Fredrik, on her birthday in 1753
Chinese Pavilion detail (KSS)
The second of the larger pair of pavilions was the En Confidance,
a dining room where the royal family could eat in privacy
Inside the En Confidance, the table was set by servants in
the kitchen below, and raised up on a platform
Back inside the main Chinese Pavilion.
Octagonal Cabinet
Work in progress: restoration of the lacquer screen
Lacquer screen
Paper lantern (KSS)
Embroidery Room
Sewing kit (?) with ivory implements
Red Room
Chinese pagoda... (KSS)
...made with seed beads
The Aviary
Winding forest path
We were caught in some rain, but it cleared as we caught the 15:00 boat back to Stockholm.
Drottningholm boat (KSS)
Next: Stockholm Finale.