Wednesday, December 4, 2024

2024 Road Scholar XX: Patan Durbar Square (10/17/2024)

Thursday, October 17, 2024
We joined the rush hour traffic to visit
the city of Lalitpur aka Patan
Crossing Bagmati River (we are downriver from
Pashupatinath Temple, the cremation temple) into Lalitpur
Brightly clothed people pass Ram Temple and monkeys
We walked through the gateway into the historic district
K-Mart
Another jumbled mess of wires and cables
Community water station (KSS)
The electronics and generator shop
Patan is known for Nepali crafts; here is some
intricate metalwork, with some of the faces
protected from the elements
The typical housing has living quarters
above workshops and retail
Baked goods
All types of woodwork in Newari
architecture that is known for bare-brick
façades and intricate wooden windows;
the Newars are the indigenous people of Nepal 
We arrived in Patan Durbar Square, our
third palace square in Nepal, with
Bhimsen Temple (rebuilt 1682 after a fire),
which is dedicated to the god of
trade and business (KSS)
In front of the Bhimsen Temple is a
column with a lion, which is the means of
transport for Bhimsen, and a flag standard
Manga Hiti Ceremonial Pavilion
overlooks the hiti/drinking fountain
Manga Hiti, where people come for the water pouring from
three spouts shaped like a makara/crocodile-like mythical beast
Vishwanath Temple dedicated
to Shiva (KSS)
The temple has ornately carved roof struts
Sculptures of mahouts/elephant caretakers on their
beasts of burden, and one is crushing a man under his foot
On the other side of Vishwanath Temple is a statue
of Nandi the bull, the transport of Shiva 
The pigeon feeding area
Column topped by Garuda, the bird man
and the transport of Vishnu; he is
facing the Krishna Mandir, a 17C
shikhara-style temple dedicated to
an incarnation of Vishnu
A better view of Garuda with
Vishwanath Temple in the background
Narasimha Temple (1589, being rebuilt
after the 2015 earthquake) is in shikhara-style
Harishankar Temple (rebuilt after the
2015 earthquake) and the King
Yoganarendra Malla column (1700)
A close-up of King Yoganarendra who is
with his two queens while a bird sits on
the head of a cobra hanging over the king
There is a legend that as long as the bird remains, the king can always return to his palace and a door and window are left open and a hookah is ready. Should the bird fly off, the elephants in front of Vishwanath Temple will walk to Manga Hiti for a drink.
Taleju Bell (1736)
An interesting water feature, Maharani Hiti,
with a sculpture of a Malla queen
Chyasin Dega Krishna Temple (1723)
is an octagonal temple in Shikhara style
Facing all the temples is the Royal Palace
(14C, expanded 17-18C)
The main entrance to the palace through
the Golden Gate (1734) with the gilded
window above where the king
once made appearances
The southern entrance to the palace has a string of
buffalo guts across the doorway
Mul Chowk is the largest and oldest of the palace courtyards;
here a mask dance was in progress
 
Mul Chowk Bidyapith Temple
Animals are tied to this post for animal sacrifices
Temple drums
Entrance to the Taleju Bhawani Temple, flanked by
statues of the river goddesses
On the left is Jamuna on a makara/
crocodile-like mythical beast
On the right is Ganga on a tortoise
The gilded door
The door was securely locked
Next: Patan Museum.

Tuesday, December 3, 2024

2024 Road Scholar XIX: Swayambhunath (10/16/2024)

Wednesday, October 16, 2024 (continued)
This time the trip on the bus was about 30 minutes as we traveled to the west side of Kathmandu to visit Swayambhunath, a religious complex on top of a hill.
Thousands of flags
Also known as the Monkey Temple,
we were told to be wary of the
Macaca mulatta/Rhesus Macaques
The monkeys know who has food
Ha, little boys and their sticks!
World Peace Pond with a gilded
figure of Shakyamuni Buddha,
the Present Buddha
Pilgrims tried to toss a coin into the
pot below the statue, to have their
wishes come true; ours will not
These monkeys must be thirsty
A monkey drinking from the spout (KSS)
Waterfall under statue of Manjushri, the
Bodhisattva of Wisdom; a boddhisattva is
someone on the path to enlightenment (KSS)
More monkeys at a Peace monument
Awww!
Ancient bell
The sign "Please don't climb on
the Buddha" does not pertain
to monkeys
Shantipur Temple door, Shantipur is
dedicated to the sky, one of five elements
that are represented at Swayambhunath
The large lock on the temple door
Sleeping dogs
Repainting Agnipura, the personification of fire
Hanuman, the monkey god,
covered with tika/mixture of
rice, honey, and vermilion
The woman had just put down an
offering at the 7C statue of Dipankara,
Buddha of Light, who appeared to
Siddhartha Gautama on his journey
to enlightenment
The monkey waiting on Dipankara's hand
jumped down to see what there was to eat
The monkey took what he found to eat
while sitting on Dipankara's head
Chaityas/small stupa-like monuments
that are constructed by families
in memory of a deceased person
Swayambhunath Stupa is said to have
arisen spontaneously on a hill that rose out
of a lake (there is no lake now)
Masks and souvenirs
The golden Hariti/Ajima Temple is dedicated
to the goddess of fertility and smallpox
Behind the Hariti Temple are two columns topped by
statues of White Tara and Green Tara, thus having
Hindu goddesses in this Buddhist site; however, they are
said to represent the Nepali and Chinese wives
of King Songtsen Gampo, who converted to Buddhism
Museum of Buddhist Statuary
A reclining Buddha represents him in his last days
of illness before death
A view to the east from the hilltop
Bahu Mangal Dwar Chaitya (rebuilt
after the 2015 earthquake) has 124 niches
that hold auspicious symbols
Vayupura Shrine is dedicated to the wind
Doors to the Basundhara Shrine,
dedicated to the goddess of Earth 
Nine bronze shrines are spaced around
the dome of the stupa; they house
statues of the five Dhyani Buddhas
who represent the five qualities of
Buddhist wisdom, and the four Taras
who may represent the qualities of a
"female Buddha" (compassion)
Dorje/Great Thunderbolt is a Tibetan Buddhist symbol
of enlightenment or indestructibility
Nagpur is a water tank dedicated to Naga,
the snake god, and to water
Pratapur, a shikhara-style temple,
is dedicated to King Pratap Malla
Anantapur is dedicated to Ananta,
the wife of King Pratap Malla
Prayer wheels
These women were "attacked" by the monkeys
Umm, Ken and Maureen need
to watch out!
This evening we were to have a talk with a Nepali woman, an attorney, to discuss the status of women in this country. We were interrupted by loud music from the restaurant through the open archway. So we went to dinner.
Bhatmas/soy beans
Momos/dumplings with hot sauce
Chicken wing
And then came dinner!