Jax Stumpes: Japan Trip 9: Himeji and Kyoto (6/14/2001)

Thursday, June 14, 2001

Up early, and down to the hotel dining room at 7:10 am. Choice of American or Japanese style breakfast. We all chose the American style, with an omelet, sausage, salad, green beans, macaroni salad, toast, juices, tea and coffee.

We checked out of the hotel, but left our bags at the desk. It was pouring rain, so we walked as far as we could in the pedestrian shopping area towards Himeji-jo, or Himeji Castle. Then with our umbrellas, we crossed a plaza, crossed a moat, and went through a gate into a large flat open area. We arrived before the castle opened at 9:00 am.

Himeji-jo

The city of Himeji was severely bombed during World War II, but the castle was left intact. It is regarded as medieval Japan’s crowning achievement of castle design and construction (see sidebar).

Sidebar:

Himeji-jo is a designated National Treasure and a world famous symbol of Himeji and Japan. It is not only one of the most beautiful castles in the world, but it is the best example of using a castle as an exhibition of power and influence. It is an excellent example of a defensive castle, and appears to be impregnable.
It is interesting to note that despite all the civil wars during medieval times, Himeji-jo was never involved in war. Never-war-ridden, and never-fire-ridden, the castle also escaped being burned, and remains one of the world’s largest wooden building complexes.

Himeji-jo/Castle

The castle is also known as Shirasagi-jo or White Heron Castle because of its white plastered walls. Its architecture is esthetically pleasing, and the main tower surrounded by three smaller towers forms a magnificent shape which gives the effect of a white heron ready to fly into the blue sky. (Gray sky today!)

A fortress was first built here in 1333 by Norimura Akamatsu, the local ruler.

In 1581, Hideyoshi Toyotomi came to build a 3-story castle. His successors to the castle included Terumasa Ikeda, who was a son-in-law of the Shogun. The Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa moved into the castle to rule. In 1601, Terumasa Ikeda began digging the three moats, and completed the 5-story main tower with three smaller towers in 1609.

After the Ikedas, Tadamasa Honda added the building complex to the west, using the dowry of his daughter-in-law, Senhime, who was the grand-daughter of Ieyasu Tokugawa. It was completed in 1618.

Touring Himeji-jo

We paid Y500 each to enter the castle proper, inside the inner moat. The outermost moat extends to the JR train station, and the city is built up to the inner moat, the only one still full of water. Inside the inner moat was a large flat terrace which probably could hold a couple football fields, dotted with cherry trees.

We entered the Ote-mon, or Main Gate to the castle grounds. We had to turn left inside the gate, and then turn right through the Hishi-no-mon. In the meantime we were in a square courtyard where the surrounding walls had windows for defenders of the castle to shoot at us.

The entrance gates were large and strong, meant to be imposing. The sama, or holes, in the defense walls came in different shapes: circle, square, rectangle or triangle. The rectangular holes were used by archers, and the others by gunmen.

Defense wall with holes of different shapes

As we headed towards the castle itself, we were moving away from it. One of this castle’s defenses was its spiral layout.

And we were climbing stairs!

Kent and Brynne climbing stairs

The castle was strategically placed on a hilltop. The tall defense walls, always surrounding us, added to the sense of steepness. The walls were built in a fan-shape, so when you look at them from the side, they curve inward, making scaling the wall difficult.

The West Bailey was a pleasant wooded area with flowering trees. From there we entered the West Corridor, having to don slippers, and put our wet umbrellas and shoes in plastic bags to carry with us.

Slippers to be worn in the castle

At first we were in a wide hallway on top of an outer wall, with regularly placed loopholes for guns. These loopholes had wooden doors, that opened when you pushed them, but sprang closed when you released pressure.

We also came across ishiotoshi, the wide openings through which stones could be thrown, or boiling water could be poured to prevent the enemy from scaling the wall.

Covered openings through which stones or boiling water
were poured to stop the enemy from scaling the wall

The openings seen at the corner from the exterior

The corridor became the Women’s Quarters, with rooms built off the inside half of the hallway. Initially the rooms were small, but became larger in size the closer you came to the main tower. The rooms had wonderful views down on the castle grounds, and up to the main castle itself. Despite being gray and rainy, the castle was an impressive jewel towering over the town far below.

In one of the largest rooms (a 16-mat room), there were models of the Princess Senhime and a lady-in-waiting, playing a shell game.

Princess Senhime and a lady-in-waiting play a shell game

We left the Corridor, left the slippers and wet plastic bags, and climbed more stairs to approach the main tower from behind. Here the gates were smaller, but stronger. They were wide enough to permit only one person to pass through at a time.

Examining the roof tiles, you could see family crests in the circular end pieces.

Family crests on the roof tiles

There was a display of all the family crests of the successive lords who lived here.

Also behind the main tower was the koshi-kuruwa, a storehouse for rice and salt in case of a siege. The building also contained a well.

Finally through a small gate, we entered the front yard of the main tower. Although we were at the top of the hill, the foundation of the main tower rose 50 feet above us! The tower itself is over 100 feet tall.

There were two styles of gables on the tower: peaked and undulating. There were also two styles of windows: square and bell-shaped.

We put on slippers, and began the climb up the stairs of the 5-story (actually 6 floors) don-jon, or tower. Guns and powder bags, swords and armor were displayed. We could see the racks and pegs where these were kept along the walls. Artwork of resident lords were displayed, along with a few personal artifacts.

View from the don-jon/tower

There were decorative nail covers called kugikakushi used on every floor in the tower. They were all black-lacquered, except for on the top floor where they were covered in gold foil.

On the top floor, there were two guards and a shrine. The Osakabe shrine was originally on the hilltop before the castle. When the castle was built, the shrine was moved elsewhere. But people began feeling the curse of Nature, so the shrine was relocated inside the main tower.

Now we could begin our descent out of the castle!

We took a slight detour to the Harakiri-maru, implying a place for the samurai’s ritual suicide called harakiri or seppuku (see sidebar).

Sidebar:

Seppuku is the ritual suicide required of defeated samurai during the feudal period (1603-1867). The ritual was meant to save their honor. Also known as harikiri which means belly-slitting. The samurai would wear a ceremonial gown and go to a special pavilion. He would kneel with a tray where a white paper covered the 9-inch dagger. He would plunge the dagger into his stomach, then cut horizontally. A second would then decapitate him.

Harakiri courtyard

The stone floor, and well would indicate the ability to wash blood away, and there was a stone block that could have been used by the second to behead the samurai.

In an area filled with cherry trees and azaleas, there was a stone and iron fence around a well overgrown with greenery. Legend tells that a servant named Okiku learned of a plot by the chief retainer to kill the lord so that he could become head of the castle. Okiku reported to the lord to foil the plot. Later the chief retainer found out it was she who had interfered with his plans, so he took revenge by stealing one of the ten Treasure dishes. She was tortured to death on the charge of the missing plate, and her body was thrown into the well. Afterwards, Okiku’s sobbing and lament counting the saucers were heard from the well.

Okiku's Well

Kent takes the stairs to the secret exit

We exited through a secret gate to a square pool, also called a moat, with swans. Then out the main gate to walk back to the train station. Kent and Brynne went to the hotel to pick up our suitcases, and Tamiko headed straight to the station for a restroom.

The Story of Senhime

Senhime was the eldest daughter of Hidetada, the second Tokugawa shogun, and granddaughter of Ieyasu the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate.

At the age of seven, forced by political reasons, she was married to Hideyori Toyotomi. At age nineteen she was widowed when Hideyori was defeated in battle and killed himself.

Later she fell in love with Tadatoki Honda, and they came to Himeji to live a happy life.

However, that happiness did not last long. She lost her eldest son at age three, and her husband soon after, when she was only 30 years old.

She lived ten more years in the castle, cherishing her happy memories.

To Kyoto

We caught the 11:08 am Hikari Shinkansen to Kyoto. We really had no idea how long it would take, but were assured Yuriko and Aunt Kyoko would wait to meet us, even beyond the designated meeting time of 12:00 noon!

As it turned out, we arrived minutes before noon, and we were met at the Hachijo-guchi (exit) by Aunt Michiko as well! Aunt Michiko is Yuriko’s youngest sister, who was just ten years old when Tamiko was born.

Aunt Kyoko commandeered two taxis to take the six of us to the Ryokan Tazeru, a traditional Japanese inn. She checked in and we left our bags by the desk.

We left the inn to cross the river behind it, and walk north. The ryokans and restaurants along the river were built out on stilts overhanging the river.

It was starting to drizzle rain. We decided on a quick light lunch, and went to McDonald’s!

Kyoko. Yuriko and Michiko at McDonald's

McDonald’s were everywhere in Japan. They seemed to be in every neighborhood in Tokyo, and in every small town in Japan. They had the same basic menu, using the very same fries and beef patties. But they also had a couple local dishes using rice. We all chose the American dishes! Big Macs, grilled chicken sandwich, hamburgers with fries and Cokes. Aunt Michiko had green tea.

The Gion District

The aunts began our tour of Kyoto, by leading us through the Gion District of the city, the legendary haunt of geishas. The street, probably Shijo-dori, with covered sidewalks, decorated with red paper lanterns, was lined with shops selling kimonos, geta (see sidebar), fans, hair accoutrements, parasols, and other paraphernalia associated with geishas.

Sidebar:

Geta are the traditional wooden shoes of Japan, now made of plastic to resemble black lacquered wood.

We saw a pair of young girls in full kimonos with their hair piled high on their heads. They were thought to be maiko, or geisha apprentices. The aunts pointed out a windowless building which is a maiko school.

We also passed what appeared to be a Kabuki theater, with peaked gables and gold trim.

Kabuki theater

Yasaka Jinja

We entered Yasaka Jinja through a 2-story vermilion gate housing a pair of guardian gods.

Yasaka Jinja main gate

This was a Shinto shrine dedicated to a god of prosperity and good health. Because it was near the shopping district, worshippers stop by for quick salvation.

The main shrine was covered with scaffolding and tarp, for renovation.

Temporary shrine

It appeared that a temporary shrine was set up, where you could pull on one of several fat ropes to ring a large bell. Once having gotten the god’s attention, you could say your prayer. Worshippers often clapped their hands loudly, instead of or in addition to ringing the bell.

This shrine had racks of paper lanterns hanging along the pathway. The lanterns were marked with names of shrine patrons.

Patron paper lanterns

The shrine also had stone koma-inu, the mythical Korean guard dogs.

Chion-in

We left through the back door of Yasaka Jinja, and walked uphill through Maruyama Koen, a small park filled with cherry trees. In the center of the park stood a centuries old cherry tree, surrounded by round azalea bushes.

Centuries-old cherry tree

Obviously, the time to visit this park is in the spring!

We climbed steep stairs to pass through the San-mon of Chion-in. The San-mon, or Main Gate, is considered the most daunting temple gate in Japan. The 2-story gate was built in 1619 and is 79 feet high.

San-mon/Main Gate at Chion-in

The gate leads to one of the largest temples of Japan, Chion-in. It is headquarters of the Jodo sect of Buddhism, the second largest Buddhist sect in Japan. It was here that Honen (1133-1212), the founder of the sect, chose to take his life by fasting to death (see sidebar).

Sidebar:

The monk Honen brought Buddhism from its lofty peak to the common people. He claimed that all people were equal in the eyes of Buddha, and that the path to salvation was through invocation of Amida Buddha’s name, “nembutsu,” which Honen said 60,000 times a day. Because his teachings were a threat to the other sects during the feudal period, Honen was accused of inciting the masses to seduce noble women, and sent into exile by Emperor Gotoba. He was pardoned in 1211, to return to the site of Chion-in, where he fasted to death.

The temple was built in 1234. Fires and earthquakes took their toll, and the buildings we saw today were rebuilt in the 17th century.

We were directed to a raised walkway, and had to remove our shoes to walk along the walkway from the Main Hall to the Assembly Hall.

Corridor with the nightingale floors,
leading to the Assembly Hall

The floor of the corridor was constructed so that it squeaked like a nightingale when walked upon. It was so designed to alert the monks of any intruders. The technique is called uguisu-bari, uguisu meaning nightingale.

At least twice, we had to step to the side, to allow a procession of priests and students to go by, as they chanted “nembutsu”, the name of Amida Buddha. In doing so, they hoped to be reborn in Buddha’s Western Paradise, or Pure Land. The name of the sect, Jodo, means pure land.

Aunt Kyoko then paid the Y400 (each) entry fee, and we continued barefoot through the Ohojo, or Abbot’s Quarters. The main room was covered with 54 tatami mats. We were here to see the renowned sliding doors decorated with paintings on gold leaf by the Kano-school artists, the Yanagi-no-ma (Willow Tree Room) and the Ume-no-ma (Plum Tree Room).

In the last hallway, we saw photos and replicas of the Seven Wonders of the temple. These were: 1) Wasure-gasa, an oiled paper umbrella with almost all its ribs exposed. It was located under the eaves of the Main Hall and is regarded as a charm against fire. 2) Sampo-shomen-mamuki-no-neko, a painting on a wooden door of Ohojo of a cat looking in three directions at once. 3) A painting on a sliding door in Ohojo with Nuke-suzume, or pictures of sparrows so vividly painted that it is said they fly away. 4) O-shakushi, a wooden spoon over 8 feet long sat in the beams over the corridor above us. The spoon represents Amida Buddha’s merciful power. 5) Uryu-seki, a large rock, near a north gate, that was said to have sprouted cucumbers. 6) Uguisubari-no-roka, the nightingale floors. And 7) Shiraki-no-Hitsugi, two white coffins of the master-builder of San-mon and his wife were in the second story of the Main Gate. They apparently committed suicide because of a defect in the gate construction.

The garden behind the Ohojo was landscaped in the tsukiyama-rinsen style. The center of focus was a pond, with a stone lantern inscribed with the date 1321. A section of the garden had rocks symbolizing 25 bodhisattvas who attended Amida Nyorai, amongst trimmed azalea bushes representing the clouds the bodhisattvas rode.

25 rocks representing bodhisattvas amongst
trimmed azaleas representing clouds

The garden represents Amida Nyorai descending from the Pure Land to receive the dying souls of people who chant “nembutsu.”

The garden contained feathery-leafed evergreens which were pruned into stacks of globes.

Pruned trees

Kiyomizu-dera

We left Chion-in by descending another set of stairs. These were shallow and broad, the ladies’ stairs! It seems that most temples have the steep stairs directly to the temple for men. And the shallow stairs curving to one side of the temple, for women who needed to take small mincing steps in their kimonos.

The aunts led us up a narrow cobble-stoned alley, which zigzagged up the mountainside. This was one of the winding streets that is an example of old Kyoto. It was lined with numerous shops selling local crafts and wares, souvenirs, and sweets.

Ninen-zaka Path in Old Kyoto

Halfway up the mountainside, we arrived at Kiyomizu-dera, a temple belonging to the Hosso sect of Buddhism. The temple is dedicated to the 11-headed Kannon, the goddess of mercy.

The entrance gate was covered in scaffolding and tarp, but the guardian gods were displayed in a temporary building.

There was a dragon fountain for the ritual cleansing.

Dragon fountain for cleansing

In the past, people came to this temple to escape the political intrigue of Kyoto, often to scheme in secret. But now it is the most visited temple in Kyoto, and is associated with Kyoto’s skyline. The temple is unique because it is built on the hillside, with the forward part of the Main Hall supported by 139 giant pillars.

Kiyomizu-dera/Temple

Kent, Kyoko, Yuriko, Tamiko, Brynne, Michiko

We walked around the veranda (see sidebar), looking into the wooded valley below, and to the city beyond.

Kiyomizu-dera veranda

Sidebar:

"Have you the courage to jump from the veranda of Kiyomizu-dera?

This saying is asked when someone tries a daring new venture.

Although the rain had stopped, it was still cloudy and hazy. Across the valley, you could see the top of the pagoda at Choraku-ji.

Choraku-ji

The original Kiyomizu-dera temple was built in 798, but the current building is a 1633 reconstruction. Brynne and the aunts participated in buying sticks of incense to light and place in front of the shrine.

Brynne lighting incense

They then clapped to gain the god’s attention, and put their hands together in prayer.

There was a smaller shrine to Jizo, the bodhisattva who also represents the god of travel and children. There were the tiny statues stacked in rows, many wearing red bibs.

But the main purpose of this temple seemed to be for good luck and fortune, especially for match-making.

Further up the hillside were several shops selling charms. There was a statue of Okuninushino-Mikoto, the god of love and good matches, with a child-sized rabbit next to him who was his messenger.

Okuninushino-Mikoto and his rabbit

On the crowded terrace, there were two stones set about 25 feet apart. It is said that if you could walk from one stone to the other with your eyes closed, that you would find your match in love. We don’t think it would be easy to do in that crowd!

Kiyomizu-dera also had a pagoda, a belfry, and a wisteria arbor.

Kiyomizu-dera pagoda

Kiyomizu-dera belfry

Groups of children were jangling metal monk’s staffs dangling with rings.

School children with a monk's staff

Ryokan Tazeru

It began to rain again as we descended the mountainside, and returned to the Ryokan Tazeru.

We were welcomed by several women in kimonos, and one personally escorted us to our room.

Ryokan room set up for snacks

We were all sharing one room, and now there was a low table surrounded by six pillows and floor chairbacks on the tatami mat floor. We sat and kneeled around the table as our hostess poured tea and served sweets. There were packaged wet towels to clean our hands and use as napkins.

The hostess gave a little spiel in Japanese, apparently listing the rules of the house, and making sure we knew where the fire escape was. The refrigerator was pointed out, as well as the telephone hidden under a scarf.

The telephone is hidden here!

We had left our shoes at the door, and the woman hid these in a cupboard, and put out slippers for us to use. But in the room we used bare or stockinged feet.

After the hostess handed out yukatas and plastic bags containing a toothbrush and handcloth, the three sisters went down to the fifth floor bath, and Kent went up to the rooftop bath.

Rooftop bath

These communal baths had a room with lockers to place your belongings, and a stack of towels. There was a row of stools in front of mirrors, with water faucets and a shower head., where you would clean yourself. In the next room was a small square pool filled with steaming water for the soaking stage. This room had a view across the river to the mountains beyond on the other side.

Our room also had a great view. Brynne and Tamiko used the private bath in our room. The room also had its own toilet with its multi-functions.

Ryokan toilet, known as a washlet

The closet in the room had silver buttons, that popped out when you pushed them. They became knobs to open the closet doors. All the bedding was kept in a closet with sliding doors.

Sidebar:

Yukatas are light cotton robes similar to kimonos, usually worn in the summer, and year-round by men.

After everyone had bathed and relaxed, wearing matching yukatas (see sidebar) cinched with a woven band, we were served dinner in our room. Every time the woman server bowed, we bowed, then she bowed, and we would bow again. “Thank you!” “Thank you!” “Thank you!” “Thank you!”

Dinner was served in several courses, with hot green tea. Brynne and Tamiko like sugar in their tea, but the request for sugar was unusual. The server happily complied though, especially when she was made to think it was for a child. We also requested soy sauce, as Brynne likes to pour it on the rice.

After dinner, the three sisters left, wearing the hotel yukatas and slippers, to go souvenir shopping! Meanwhile, the staff came to the room to lay out the futons.