Saturday, April 26, 2025
Crete is the largest Greek island and in a class of its own (meaning it is not grouped with other Greek islands).
Heraklion is considered to have one of the 'best-preserved' medieval fortifications in Europe.
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Once again a morning included excursion where we drove up into the heart of the capital city of Iraklio/Heraklion, past the fortifications (1462-1562) that were completely rebuilt by the Republic of Venice against the threat of the Ottomans |
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We visited the Heraklion Archaeological Museum that held many of the treasures from the Palace of Knossos, the center of the earliest civilization in Europe: the Minoans |
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A closeup of a tiny golden frog that is thought to be the earliest piece of goldwork from the 3000s BCE, showing the advanced technique of granulation |
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Early clay depiction (of the 5300-3000 BCE) of the mother or earth goddess |
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Vasílikí ware (2300-1900 BCE); in the foreground are teapots with beak spouts |
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Bee pendant (1800-1700 BCE) shows two bees depositing a drop of honey in the comb between their legs, with dangling drops of honey and above their heads is a cage holding a gold ball; a masterpiece of repoussé, granulation, filigree, and incised decoration techniques of goldwork |
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Finial handle of a scepter (1800-1700 BCE) in the shape of a panther or leopard with an axehead |
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Gold-leaf decorated swords and daggers were symbols of status for display and were not functional |
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| Close-up of the remains of gold-leaf decoration |
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Kamares ware (1900-1700 BCE) is one of the most ornamental styles in pottery history, known for a variety of decorations on a dark background |
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These examples show the nearly "eggshell" thinness of Kamares ware, thought to be made exclusively for the elite |
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A model of Knossos, the celebrated palace of the Minoan kings (1900-1100 BCE), which is an archaeological site but with many areas reconstructed rather than left as found; in retrospect we are happy that with an either/or choice we went to the museum and not to Knossos |
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A luxury gaming board made with gold-plated ivory, rock crystal insets, blue glass paste, and silver foil; it is not known how it is played |
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House model (1700 BCE) illustrates Minoan architecture with partitioned windows, a light-well column, and interior stairs |
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Amphora/storage jar (c 1500 BCE) with octopus decoration to celebrate the sea; it actually has nine "handles" |
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Phaistos Disc side A (c 2000 BCE) is inscribed with "pictograms" in a spiral of a total of 241 signs in 61 groups, with 45 distinct ones; it has not been deciphered |
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| Phaistos Disc side B |
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Throw-pillow sized copper ingots (1500- 1450 BCE) may have been a unit of exchange |
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The Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BCE) is thought to be the first rendering in three dimensions |
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The Bull-Leaping fresco (1600-1400 BCE) illustrates what may have been a rite of passage for young males, performing a backwards somersault over a bull; note the male is brown-skinned from the sun, and the two female "athletes" are white |
Sir Arthur Evans was the primary archaeologist at the Palace of Knossos. Upon finding fragments of frescoes, he hired archaeological restorer, Émile Gilliéron, to create an image from the largest bits. Thus, much of the "picture may be from Gilliéron's imagination.
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Two carved alabaster fragments of a lyre (1450-1370 BCE) |
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Labrys/Double-headed axes were largely ceremonial |
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A restored rhyton/libation vessel, a ritual vase for religious offerings in the shape of a bull's head; since no complete bull's head has been found, it is surmised the rhytons were meant to be smashed after the ceremonies |
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Another rhyton (1600-1500 BCE) in the shape of the head of a lioness with a hole for pouring in the nose |
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"Snake Goddess" (1650-1550 BCE) with a cat on her head |
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A gold seal ring (1450-1400 BCE) supposedly belonging to the legendary King Minos, associated with the myth of Theseus and the minotaur in the labyrinth; the ring has remarkable detail |
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Clay tablets (with Linear B script) that primarily were used for inventory and lists, and could be erased and used again |
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Wild boar tusks (1600-1450 BCE) that came from two helmets, likely sewn together with leather strips |
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Luxury rhyton (1500-1450 BCE) of rock crystal with gilded ivory discs, the vessels were not meant to be put down after the drinking or ritual began |
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| Burial pithos/container |
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| Jewelry (1400-1300 BCE) found in a cemeteries |
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Hagia Triada Sarcophagus (1370-1300 BCE) illustrated with scenes from a funeral |
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The other side of the Hagia Triada Sarcophagus shows the sacrifice of a bull |
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| Chest larnax/coffin (1370-1300 BCE) |
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Remains of a Dolphin fresco (1600-1450 BCE) from the Palace of Knossos; again we have Émile Gilliéron filling in the background |
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| Ladies in Blue fresco (1600-1450 BCE) |
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| Prince of Lilies fresco (1600-1450 BCE) |
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Camp-stool fresco (1450-1300 BCE) with a female that archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans named 'La Parisienne' |
What happened to the Minoans who had such an advanced civilization, only to disappear with much of their knowledge? The Minoans engaged in maritime trade as far as Egypt and mainland Greece, and had an influence on those cultures. Theories suggest the volcanic eruption on the island of Santorini in 1500 BCE caused tsunamis that wiped out surrounding settlements and changed maritime routes. Dependent on trade and not prepared for war, the Minoans may have succumbed to the warrior-led Mycenaeans.
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| Bauhinia variegata/Orchid Tree blossoms |
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Statue of Stephanos Xanthoudidēs, Cretan archaeologist and co-founder of the Heraklion Archaeological Museum |
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| Bee pendant earrings for sale |
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| Dedalou, the shopping street |
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Morosini Fountain (1628) provided fresh drinking water to the city |
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Former Basilica of St Mark (13C) is now an art gallery, and today the site of a student protest essentially about the lack of affordable housing |
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Bust (1949, by Nikos Sofialakis) of the artist Domenikos Theotokopoulos aka El Greco, who was born in Crete |
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Venetian Loggia (1626-1628, by Francesco Morosini in Palladian style) is now City Hall |
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Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus (1869 as a mosque by Athanasios Moussis; 1925 became Eastern Orthodox) |
On our own:
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| The sea at the end of 25th of August Street beckoned us |
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| Venetian Fortress (16C) on the Sea of Crete |
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| Olive wood products |
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| Why did someone break all the windows of the H&M store? |
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Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus: Reliquary of the skull of St Titus |
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| Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus interior |
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| Back on the Viking Saturn: quite an array of desserts! |
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