Saturday, April 26, 2025

Crete, Greece (4/26/2025)

Saturday, April 26, 2025
Crete is the largest Greek island and in a class of its own (meaning it is not grouped with other Greek islands).
Heraklion is considered to have one of the 'best-preserved' medieval fortifications in Europe.
Once again a morning included excursion where we drove
up into the heart of the capital city of Iraklio/Heraklion, past
the fortifications (1462-1562) that were completely rebuilt
by the Republic of Venice against the threat of the Ottomans
We visited the Heraklion Archaeological
Museum that held many of the treasures from
the Palace of Knossos, the center of the
earliest civilization in Europe: the Minoans
A closeup of a tiny golden frog that is thought to be the
earliest piece of goldwork from the 3000s BCE,
showing the advanced technique of granulation
Early clay depiction (of the 5300-3000 BCE)
of the mother or earth goddess
Vasílikí ware (2300-1900 BCE); in the foreground
are teapots with beak spouts
Bee pendant (1800-1700 BCE) shows two bees depositing a
drop of honey in the comb between their legs, with dangling
drops of honey and above their heads is a cage holding a
gold ball; a masterpiece of repoussé, granulation, filigree,
and incised decoration techniques of goldwork
Finial handle of a scepter (1800-1700 BCE)
in the shape of a panther or leopard with an axehead
Gold-leaf decorated swords and daggers were
symbols of status for display and were not functional
Close-up of the remains of gold-leaf decoration
Kamares ware (1900-1700 BCE) is one of the most
ornamental styles in pottery history, known for a variety
of decorations on a dark background
These examples show the nearly "eggshell" thinness of
Kamares ware, thought to be made exclusively for the elite
A model of Knossos, the celebrated palace of the Minoan
kings (1900-1100 BCE), which is an archaeological site but
with many areas reconstructed rather than left as
found; in retrospect we are happy that with an either/or
choice we went to the museum and not to Knossos
A luxury gaming board made with gold-plated ivory,
rock crystal insets, blue glass paste, and silver foil;
it is not known how it is played
House model (1700 BCE) illustrates Minoan
architecture with partitioned windows,
a light-well column, and interior stairs
Amphora/storage jar (c 1500 BCE) with
octopus decoration to celebrate the sea;
it actually has nine "handles"
Phaistos Disc side A (c 2000 BCE) is
inscribed with "pictograms" in a spiral of a
total of 241 signs in 61 groups, with 45
distinct ones; it has not been deciphered
Phaistos Disc side B
Throw-pillow sized copper ingots (1500-
1450 BCE) may have been a unit of exchange
The Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BCE) is thought to be the 
first rendering in three dimensions
The Bull-Leaping fresco (1600-1400 BCE) illustrates
what may have been a rite of passage for young males,
performing a backwards somersault over a bull;
note the male is brown-skinned from the sun,
and the two female "athletes" are white
Sir Arthur Evans was the primary archaeologist at the Palace of Knossos. Upon finding fragments of frescoes, he hired archaeological restorer, Émile Gilliéron, to create an image from the largest bits. Thus, much of the "picture may be from Gilliéron's imagination.
Two carved alabaster fragments of a lyre
(1450-1370 BCE)
Labrys/Double-headed axes were
largely ceremonial
A restored rhyton/libation vessel, a ritual
vase for religious offerings in the shape of a
bull's head; since no complete bull's head has
been found, it is surmised the rhytons were
meant to be smashed after the ceremonies
Another rhyton (1600-1500 BCE) in the shape of the
head of a lioness with a hole for pouring in the nose
"Snake Goddess" (1650-1550 BCE)
with a cat on her head
A gold seal ring (1450-1400 BCE) supposedly belonging to the
legendary King Minos, associated with the myth of Theseus
and the minotaur in the labyrinth; the ring has remarkable detail 
Clay tablets (with Linear B script) that primarily were used
for inventory and lists, and could be erased and used again
Wild boar tusks (1600-1450 BCE) that
came from two helmets, likely sewn
together with leather strips
Luxury rhyton (1500-1450 BCE)
of rock crystal with gilded ivory discs,
the vessels were not meant to be put down
after the drinking or ritual began
Burial pithos/container
Jewelry (1400-1300 BCE) found in a cemeteries
Hagia Triada Sarcophagus (1370-1300 BCE)
illustrated with scenes from a funeral
The other side of the Hagia Triada Sarcophagus shows
the sacrifice of a bull
Chest larnax/coffin (1370-1300 BCE)
Remains of a Dolphin fresco (1600-1450 BCE)
from the Palace of Knossos; again we have
Émile Gilliéron filling in the background
Ladies in Blue fresco (1600-1450 BCE)
Prince of Lilies fresco (1600-1450 BCE)
Camp-stool fresco (1450-1300 BCE)
with a female that archaeologist
Sir Arthur Evans named 'La Parisienne'
What happened to the Minoans who had such an advanced civilization, only to disappear with much of their knowledge? The Minoans engaged in maritime trade as far as Egypt and mainland Greece, and had an influence on those cultures. Theories suggest the volcanic eruption on the island of Santorini in 1500 BCE caused tsunamis that wiped out surrounding settlements and changed maritime routes. Dependent on trade and not prepared for war, the Minoans may have succumbed to the warrior-led Mycenaeans.
Bauhinia variegata/Orchid Tree blossoms
Statue of Stephanos Xanthoudidēs, Cretan
archaeologist and co-founder of the
Heraklion Archaeological Museum
Bee pendant earrings for sale
Dedalou, the shopping street
Morosini Fountain (1628) provided fresh
drinking water to the city
Former Basilica of St Mark (13C) is now an art gallery,
and today the site of a student protest essentially
about the lack of affordable housing
Bust (1949, by Nikos Sofialakis) of the artist
Domenikos Theotokopoulos aka El Greco,
who was born in Crete
Venetian Loggia (1626-1628, by Francesco Morosini
in Palladian style) is now City Hall
Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus (1869 as a mosque
by Athanasios Moussis; 1925 became Eastern Orthodox)
On our own:
The sea at the end of 25th of August Street beckoned us
Venetian Fortress (16C) on the Sea of Crete
Olive wood products
Why did someone break all the windows of the H&M store?
Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus:
Reliquary of the skull of St Titus
Holy Cathedral Church of Saint Titus interior
Back on the Viking Saturn: quite an array of desserts!

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