Tuesday, October 15, 2019
We began the day cruising along Lake Onega, which is supposed to be second only to distilled water in purity. We did not test this phenomenon.
Kent went on the Wheelhouse Tour:
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| Misha (in red jacket) interprets for the Captain (KSS) |
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Icons in the wheelhouse; they depict St Nicholas,
patron saint of sailors (KSS) |
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| All the latest technology (KSS) |
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| Autumn colors on Оне́жское о́зеро/Lake Onega |
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Церковь Николая Чудотворца/Church of St Nicholas and
Церковь Тихвинской Иконы/Church of the Tikhvin Icon
on an island approaching Kizhi Island (KSS) |
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| Now approaching Остров Кижи/Kizhi Island |
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| View from the ship of the Kizhi Island dock |
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| Our walking tour goal: Кижи Погост/Kizhi Pogost |
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| Betula sp/White Birches |
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| Reeds in a cove and a hidden sun |
Kizhi Island is one of the largest open-air museums in Russia. Many buildings were brought here to preserve the architectural heritage of the native peoples of Karelia, a region that is located across the border of Russia and Finland.
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The Kizhi Pogost/Parish center is included on the
World Heritage List of UNESCO and is on its original site |
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Церковь Преображения Господня/Church of the Transfiguration
(1714, undergoing renovation) is 37m/121' tall with 22 domes |
Russian Orthodox churches have a hierarchy of domes. A single center dome symbolizes Christ, while three domes represent the Holy Trinity. Often there is a taller center dome surrounded by four smaller domes, for Christ and the four Evangelists. Seven would stand for the Seven Ecumenical Councils which formulated the basic dogmas of the Orthodox Church, while nine would represent the nine ranks of angels. Finally thirteen domes symbolize Christ and the twelve Apostles. So are 22 domes the sum of thirteen and nine? Three plus seven and nine?!
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| Wooden wall of the pogost |
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| Entering the Kizhi Pogost |
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| The cemetery is included in the pogost |
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Церковь Покрова Богородицы/Church of the Intercession of Mary
(1764, as the winter church) with nine domes, and it is said the
roof is made without nails |
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| View from the winter church porch of the neighboring farmhouse (KSS) |
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| Church of the Intercession Iconostasis |
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Icon showing the "veil" of Mary held over
the people as protection |
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| Iron bars over the window |
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A museum in the narthex held icons and these
Royal Doors with their posts |
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The Church of the Transfiguration is said to have
no equal in the world; the legend is that the master
builder Nestor built it with a single ax |
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The domes are covered in carved wooden shingles of aspen,
which would normally have been renewed regularly over time |
The new wooden shingles are blonde like the hair of a young woman, and with age, the shingles turn silver like the hair of an old woman. (The one photo of the Church of the Transfiguration makes the shingles look silver, but it is the silver/gray of the Church of the Intercession of Mary where the shingles are older.)
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| Also in the pogost is the Bell Tower (1874) |
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Next is the дом Ошевнева/Oshevnev House (1876, named for the village
from which it was moved in 1951), a Karelian house that combined the
house and the stable/barn in a single unit |
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| Carved wood decoration on windows and balcony railing (KSS) |
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| The Oshevnev House is two stories with a dormered attic |
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Inside the Oshevnev House, the large wood-burning stove (for heat and
cooking) is in the center of the house (note the fabric covered hanging cradle) |
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Beds were arranged around the stove, and the guide described
lifting Grandpa onto the top of the stove |
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| A couple dolls in the hanging cradle (KSS) |
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| An embroidery sampler (KSS) |
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Although livestock was kept in the ground floor of the barn half
of the building, the chickens were kept in a coop with the family |
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| A cupboard bed upstairs |
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The second floor is where most of the living/working took place,
and valuables (such as china) were kept in this room |
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| The desk with MapQuest and a calculator (per the guide) |
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The second story over the barn was for the workshop and storage; here it
also displayed items that would have belonged to a family living on a lake |
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| Items used to turn flax into linen |
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The second story exit with a ramp for livestock that would
haul large items into the storage barn |
Next: Kizhi Island 2.
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