Wednesday, August 25, 2021

Passage to Eastern Europe: Kalocsa & Puszta (8/25/2021)

Wednesday, August 25, 2021
Arrived in Budapest, Hungary this morning.
During breakfast we watched a group of paddleboarders
paddle against the current of the Danube River
Up on Gellert Hill is Szabadság szobor/Liberty Statue
(1947,  by Zsigmond Kisfaludi Stróbl to commemorate the Soviet
liberation of Hungary in World War II) now bears a new
inscription: to the memory of all those who sacrificed their lives
for the independence, freedom, and prosperity of Hungary
We had to put our luggage outside the door, and vacate the stateroom, since we would be going eventually to a hotel. The next Viking cruise group would be arriving today, so there was a quick turn-around, including a hyper-sanitizing due to the pandemic.
We boarded our motorcoach for the rescheduled included shore excursion to Kalocsa & Puszta, which was now a 120-km/74.5-mile trip instead of just a 15.5-km/9.6-mile jaunt.
Budapest's new Ludwig Múzeum/Ludwig Museum
(est 1976) is located in Müpa Budapest (2002-2005, by
Zoboki, Demeter és Társaik Építésziroda); the
Ludwig Museum features contemporary art
Arriving at Bakodpuszta Equestrian Center in
 Dunapataj, Hungary, we were escorted by a
whip-cracking csikós/Hungarian cowboy (KSS)
Bakodpuszta is a breeding farm out on the puszta/prairie or steppe to maintain the Magyar cultural heritage.
We are serenaded by a man playing a Tárogató,
a woodwind instrument that looks like a clarinet (KSS)
Three csikós/Hungarian cowboys in their extremely baggy
pants, shirts with ballooning sleeves, and a black vest
We were served a "break-fast" of Zsíros Kenyér/
Fatty Bread, spread with rendered lard (traditionally
from pork fatback) and sprinkled with paprika, plus
a beverage of white or red wine, or apple juice
You could also add onion rings to the "open-faced sandwich."
Our hosts included Csaba Fekete, and I bet that is his wife ...
The performance began by showing off the Magyar Szürke/
Bos taurus var/Hungarian Grey or Steppe Cattle
Originally raised as beasts of burden and for beef,
the Hungarian cattle are now kept mainly in national parks
The tips of the horns are capped with golden balls,
supposedly to prevent accidental goring (really?!)
Now the real show begins, with four csikós on
specifically bred kisbéri félvér/half-bred horses of which
the Gidrán line was initially used for military purposes;
but wait! Csaba Fekete is on a donkey!
These horses were taught to lie down so that they
could hide in tall grass during battle
This csikós is still training his horse to lie down,
by physically wrestling him to the ground!
The horse was expected to play dead, despite
all the noise of battle (and whip cracking)
Video of "playing dead with whip cracking":
The donkey is well-trained, too!
Calvary men could also sleep on their horses
I am not sure of the purpose of this skill
These horses could sit like dogs, and still not flinch at the whip
Joyce "volunteered" to be whipped;
actually the whip is gently "thrown"
to wrap around its quarry
One of the horsemanship games is to race around the field
carrying a mug of Pálinka/Hungarian fruit brandy
(although they claimed it was apple juice today);
Csaba is cheating by carrying his mug on a tray where
he can pour the spillage back into his mug to be
the winner of the least-spilled contest
After the contest - bottoms up!
Video of the contest to knock off a wooden block with the whip:
Csaba (on his donkey) also won the game where he chased
whatever rider happened to have grabbed a girl's
scarf from another's shoulder, and grabbed it for himself,
winning the prize of a kiss from the "girl"
A peasant cart is pulled by a mis-matched trio of horses;
the horse on the right is attached to and pulls the rear wheels
The nobleman's carriage is pulled by a matching set
of horses built for speed, but requires someone in the
rear to balance the carriage around corners at high speed
Video of the nobleman's carriage going fast:
Finally, the Ten-in-hand, with one csikós
controlling ten horses; the pair of horses upon
which he stands may have Lipizzaner blood
Video of the Ten-in-hand:
Video of the Ten-in-hand running fast:
Now it was time for we guests to sample Pálinka/Hungarian
fruit brandy and savory Sajtos pogácsa/cheese biscuits
In the barn are these informal stalls
And these are the stud stalls for the feistier stallions
Oves aries var/Racka Sheep are another ancient breed,
known for their unusual spiraling horns
Sus scrofa domesticus var/Mangalica Piglets, another
Hungarian ancient breed
Trying to see the curly hair of the Mangalica pig
Umm, if this is the mother, maybe they are not Mangalicas
Keeping the Ten-in-hand organized
The "special" shoes used by the Ten-in-hand ride
One of the csikós enters the barn (KSS)
There are a lot of horses on this farm!
Oh! and now for a horse-drawn carriage ride
Passing the other group of Viking guests
A shepherd's hut and a well sweep for the water well
(hand over hand you lower the bucket on a rope into the well
and when the bucket is filled, allow the weight of the
wooden pole to raise the bucket out of the well
Shelter for animals (most likely sheep) out on the prairie
Back on the motorcoach to head for lunch.
Some sunflower fields (sunflowers usually grown for the oil)
and mostly hay fields, with a mountain of hay bales
Next: Kalocsa.

No comments: