Sunday, August 22, 2021

Passage to Eastern Europe: More Belgrade (8/22/2021)

Sunday, August 22, 2021 (continued)
Continuing our free-time exploration:
We again passed the National Assembly of the Republic
of Serbia, for a closer look
Играју се црни коњи/Playful Black Horses
(1937-1938, by Toma Rosandić), one of a pair
The second Playful Black Horse; the Serbians
are reported to joke about everything and our
local guide described the statues as "one horse
being pushed and one being pulled, but if a
horse ever gets into the National Assembly,
you will never get him out"
This exterior windshield sunscreen works well enough!
Историјски музеј Србије/Historical
Museum of Serbia (est 1963, building 1932-
1934, by Petar and Branko Krstićas in Modernist
in Art Deco style, the Privileged Agrarian Bank)
Споменик Николи Пашићу/Monument
(1998, by Zoran Ivanovićto) to Nikola Pašić,
a Serbian statesman with posts including
Mayor of Belgrade and Prime Minister of
Serbia up through World War I
A Corvus cornix/Hooded or Gray Crow watches a dog in the
Nikola Pašić Square Fountain (1959, by Hranislav Stojanović)
where a custom has developed for students graduating from
elementary and secondary schools jump into the fountain
Roasted corn vendor
„Зелени венац“ пијаца/Green Wreath Market (est 1847,
buildings 1926) is the oldest market still in operation
in Belgrade; only open on Saturdays
The McDonald's in Belgrade do not use
Serbian Cyrillic to shout out their name
So in Belgrade we find the future in waste
collection (household waste, organic waste,
mixed recycling), with large underground
containers that are emptied only when full
(they can be electronically monitored)
Конак кнегиње Љубице/Residence of Princess Ljubica
(1829-1830, by Hadži Nikola Živković) is typical of city
houses in Serbian-Balkan style, and was built for
Prince Miloš of the Obrenović Dynasty
Саборна Црква Светог Архангела Михаила/
Holy Archangel Michael Orthodox Cathedral
(1837-1840, Neoclassical style)
Façade of Holy Archangel Michael
 Orthodox Cathedral
Looking back up the steps to the
bank of the Danube River
A coffeehouse with a bust of Tito
Seems to be a memorial to the
fallen seamen of 1941-1945
Back on the Viking Ullur:
I have neglected to show the oatmeal raisin cookie
that always accompanies the specialty cookies
Tonight the theme of dinner is The Taste of the Balkans, which has traditionally been  a buffet. But now that we have had a few more positive COVID-19 tests among the guests, we will be served. However, I did take photos of the buffet.
The chef at the buffet in the dining room,
with the pickles and fruit and cheese
Meat options are roasted chicken and roasted pork shoulder ...
... as well as, stuffed bell peppers and lamb kebabs
Cured meats and stuffed mini peppers
along with Hungarian wax peppers
Salad greens, beets, and pepper salad
More salad greens, Serbian coleslaw,
and marinated tomatoes
Desserts: Lokum/Turkish Delight and Bakclava
Desserts: Doboš Cake and Poppyseed Cake
Fruit platter and Semolina Pudding (with apricot jam)
Taste of the Balkans décor
The "restaurant" or dining room on the Viking Ullur
This was how we were served
the appetizers ...
that also included flatbread with three
spreads: Körözött/Hungarian cheese spread,
Vinete/Romanian eggplant dip, and
Ajvar/Serbiab roasted red pepper spread
Roasted chick and pork shoulder with
Balkan fries and Croatian rice and peas
We were served every dessert!
We sailed away from Belgrade after dark;
view toward New Belgrade (KSS)
View back toward Бранков мост/Branko Bridge (1956, a continuous steel box girder bridge)
Fireworks from the foot of Belgrade Fortress (KSS)
The same fireworks?!
Belgrade Fortress
The Victor statue
Bye, bye, Belgrade! (KSS)
Tonight's enrichment lecture: Serbia Today, was advertised to portray Serbia as a crossroads of the world with various civilizations, religions, and cultures that existed (peacefully together?) over thousands of years.
As we know, World War I is said to have been started by the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, in Sarajevo, Bosnia, by a Bosnian Serb. This gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire the excuse they needed to invade Serbia, even though the event took place in Austro-Hungary-controlled Bosnia-Herzegovina. Were the Serbians always the victims?
During World War II, the Serbians were victims of genocide from many fronts.
Serbians claim to have fought only wars of liberation, including in the 1990s. Yet in the 1990s, they did not have the support of the UN and NATO. Why? The Serbian answer seems to be because they had ties to Communism. (Yet, during World War II, the Allies supported Tito's Communist Partisans in hopes of stabilizing the Balkan region.) Granted, the Serbian people probably did not know what the Milošević government was doing, but they remain miffed that France was part of the NATO bombing of 1999.
Is Serbian nationalism actually resentment against the slights of all the other identity groups in Yugoslavia? The Serbian Republic seems to have wanted to carry on the Yugoslav name, but everyone else fought to be independent from Yugoslavia.
Of the countries we are visiting on this trip, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, and Hungary, only Serbia is not a member of the European Union/EU.
Well, I only had one ear open for the lecture, so I am probably off base. The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.
Next: Vukovar, Croatia.

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