Monday, August 23, 2021

Passage to Eastern Europe: Vukovar, Croatia (8/23/2021)

Monday, August 23, 2021
Whoa! We slept in until 9:00, waking up only because of the announcement that we had arrived in Vukovar and the optional shore excursion would begin. Fortunately, we were not taking that excursion.
Instead after breakfast, we had free time!
Vukovar is the largest river port in Croatia. It was heavily damaged during the Croatian War of Independence/Homeland War (1991-1995) when under three-month siege by the Serbians.
Falling tablets? Rather, the tablets are becoming upright
Phoenix Monument to the rebuilding of Vukovar
after the 1991 Battle of Vukovar (KSS)
Parcours exercise equipment along the Danube promenade
We did not have maps covering the Vukovar Water Tower, so we just headed towards where we could see it over the trees. We found ourselves on the downside of a steep hill, and had to go back to find a way up the hill.
Random carved wooden figures, with a guy in a barrel?
Large recycling bins
Restored section of a typical arcaded street
Ulica Dr Franje Tuđmana #36: not restored
Kapela svetog Ivana Nepomuka/Chapel of St John Nepomuk,
the saint protector from floods and drowning (KSS)
Memorial to the Victims of Communism
1945-2005 (KSS)
Crkva svetih Filipa i Jakova/Roman Catholic
Church of Sts Philip & James (1723-1732,
in Baroque style), which is a Franciscan church
said to be the third longest church in Croatia
The Church of Sts Philip & James has been restored
The Church of Sts Philip & James apparently has a new organ
I am not familiar with St Bono, but it is reported that in the 18C, the Franciscan Monastery was given the relics of St Bono, but they were burned during the Serbian occupation of Vukovar.
Station of the Cross #2: Jesus is made to
carry his cross
The paintings for the Stations of the Cross appear
to be modern; 10: Jesus is stripped of his garments
Solar-powered street light (KSS)
Old and new in Vukovar (KSS)
Damaged neighborhood cross
This ferocious guard dog did not like that
we walked up his street, which was a dead end!
Finally reached the Vukovarski Vodotoranj/Vukovar
Water Tower (1968) was a frequent target of the Serbian
artillery during the siege of the Battle of Vukovar in 1991;
now there is a modern coffee shop below the tower
Repairs were started, but then it was decided
to leave the water tower as a remembrance
Before the war, there was a restaurant at the top of the tower
Giant basket planters are seen
throughout the city (KSS)
Below the tower is a mural, or perhaps it is artistic graffiti,
showing members of the Bad Blue Boys, a ultras group
(fanatical fan club) of the Croatian football (i.e., soccer)
team based in Zagreb; they were apparently outspoken in their
support of Croatian independence - but wait a minute,
 they seem to have been born during the War for Independence!
Mural of a mother crying over the graves
of the sons of the city (KSS)
There are bullet holes everywhere (KSS)
A view of the Church of Sts Philip & James where
you can see it is the third longest church in Croatia
A television antenna, or something stronger?! (KSS)
Crkva svetog Nikola/Serbian Orthodox Church
of Saint Nicholas (1733-1737, in Baroque style)
A building left damaged as a reminder of the Battle
of Vukovar, but with the addition of flowers to
symbolize that Vukovar will rise again like a Phoenix
Memorial to Jean-Michel Nicollier, a French
citizen who volunteered to fight with Croatian
forces in their War for Independence; he was
one who was taken from the Vukovar
hospital and transported to the Ovčara farm,
where he was beaten and shot
The Vuka River
A mural on the Croatia Insurance building: the sunflower
and butterfly were done in 2017, then The Heart is the the
Commander
(2021, by Juandres Vera from Mexico) (KSS)
Rodna kuća Lavoslava Ružičke/Birthplace of
Lavoslava Ružičke, a joint winner of the 1939 Nobel
Prize in Chemistry; the building has been restored
Crkva svetog Roka/Church of St Roko (KSS)
Vukovar's Mannekin Pis/Boy Urinating (1966, by
Antun Augustinčić) happened to have been removed before
the Battle of Vukovar for restoration and escaped damage
Gradski muzej Vukovar/Vukovar Municipal Museum
in Dvorac Eltz/Eltz Manor (1749-1751) has been restored
Vukovarsko-srijemska županija/Vukovar-Syrmia County
Palace (1773) has also been restored
Vukovar Courthouse
Veleučilište "Lavoslav Ružička"/Lavoslav Ružička
Polytechnic Academy
The Eltz Knoll Villa (1860) has been part of the Vukovar
hospital since 1940, and also has been restored
We did not have time to go into the hospital basement.
Nacionalna memorijalna bolnica Vukovar/Vukovar
National Memorial Hospital has been rebuilt after the
Croatian War of Independence, but the basement has
been left as a memorial and museum; despite the Geneva
Convention, the hospital was bombed, attacked and
"captured," then a group of about 300 patients and civilians
(who had sought refuge) were transported to the Ovčara farm,
where they were tortured and left to be massacred
by the Serbian paramilitary and buried in a mass grave
So, I do not have a horse in this race and cannot choose a side. But, please, would these people stop harassing and killing each other?! Or is doing that more "honest or transparent" than the "systemic" ethnicism/racism we see in our own country?
An aisle in a pharmacy, and they say Americans
have too many product brands
Bijeli križ/White Cross, a memorial to all those who
fell defending the city of Vukovar in 1991
Single swan in the Vuka River
The old water tower by the abandoned Hotel Dunav/Danube
Vukovar old water tower (1913, by
Fran Funtak in late Secessionist style)
Inflatable playground
Back to the Viking Ullur.
Next: Osijek, Croatia.

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