Wednesday, October 16, 2024

2024 Road Scholar XVIII: Boudhanath Stupa (10/16/2024)

Wednesday, October 16, 2024 (continued)
We hopped back on the bus for a 2 km/1.2 mile drive a bit northeast to Boudhanath Stupa, the largest stupa in Nepal.
A pigeon samples some grain
Bundles of incense sticks and colorful boxes
A closer look at the boxes
Boudhanath Stupa (c 600, when King
Songtsen Gampo converted to Buddhism);
workers are in the process of changing
the banners and flags; here the green
"headband" is being removed
The five shapes of the stupa (Buddhist shrine for meditation)
represent the five elements: square base for earth, the dome
for water, conical spire for fire, umbrella circle for air, and
a [triangular] pinnacle for ether or the spirit 
Ceremonial door
Now the "headband" is red; Buddha's
all-seeing eyes are on all four sides
We began circling the stupa in a
clockwise direction, along with pilgrims
and tourists on the kora/pilgrimage;
Himalayan Java Coffee features
coffee from beans grown in Nepal
Boudha Stupa View Guest House
Guru Lhakhang Monastery music gallery where
we heard the end of a drumming session (KSS) 
Souvenir shop; although absolutely
forbidden in Tibet, here we are permitted
to have a photo of the 14th Dalai Lama
Food and water are provided to pigeons for good karma
This little girl was determined to catch the white pigeon
We had lunch on a terrace overlooking
the Boudhanath Stupa
View down on the stupa; hmm,
the base is not really square
Had a quick stop at a thangka
(painting on fabric) school
Colorful scarves
Traditional Tibetan dress and apron;
the stupa is located on the ancient trade
route between Nepal and Tibet; Tibetan
merchants stopped here to rest and pray
Another view of the stupa with prayer flag poles
Prayer pole inside the entrance
We stepped inside the see this
collection of bells
After having been around the kora
a few times, we sat on a bench
to watch all the pilgrims
A group of Buddhist nuns
I guess I was not as covert as I thought in taking photos
Kent took this one!
We started seeing the same people making several circuits 
Most of the Buddhists are Tibetans?
Under the yellow curtains on the wall are prayer wheels,
but only this group was spinning them; we did the prayer
wheels in a long section chanting om mani padme hum/
hail to the jewel in the lotus, led by Suresh
The woman on the right has her own prayer wheel
Pilgrims were both old and young

2024 Road Scholar XVII: Pashupatinath Temple (10/16/2024)

Wednesday, October 16, 2024 (continued)
[Warning: There are cremation scenes in this post.]
After breakfast, we boarded the bus for our excursion 
to Pashupatinath Temple on the east side of Kathmandu
Passed the statue of Tribhuvan Shah,
who became King of Nepal at the age of
five when the role was largely ceremonial
The governing power was in the hands of the Rana family who held the position of prime minister and other important government roles, which were passed on to sons. The king supported popular efforts to overthrow the Ranas, and had to seek asylum in India. This led to demonstrations by the people against the Ranas, who decided to seek an agreement with King Tribhuvan Shah. With new ministers chosen by the king in 1951, the Ranas were put on an equal basis with the Nepali Congress. However, the king died in 1955 and was replaced by his son, who dismantled his father's attempts for democracy.
Matighar Mandala (2001, to showcase Nepali culture
during a South Asia Association for Regional
Cooperation/SAARC summit meeting in Kathmandu) 
Tika powders in a rainbow of colors
Likely these items are for celebrating anniversaries
of a loved one's death/cremation
Very large prayer beads
Four-faced marionettes
Macaca mulatta/Rhesus Macaque mother and child;
these monkeys kept away from visitors
Across the Bagmati River is a
45-degree Shivalinga, which is tilted
at an  angle and I am guessing
that is why it is so-named
The Shivalinga ... apparently it is we Westerners who have simplified the lingam into a phallic representation of the god Shiva, and the yoni as a gateway of birth and representation of Shiva's consort, Shakti. Together they represent a union for creation. However, unlike some Christians, Hindus have fully embraced science, and believe the Shivalinga represents the universe. They say that Vishnu is a proton with a positive charge, Shiva is a neutron, Brahma is an electron with a negative charge, and Shakti is energy.
Bhasmeshwor Temples, sattals/pilgrim
shelters, and an active funeral pyre (KSS)
On the Hindu death anniversary, traditionally the eldest
son will shave his head and pay homage to the departed one,
by making offerings of food (usually a cooked rice ball
and water) and praying to his ancestors; offerings are
also made to crows as it is believed the ancestors
take the form of a crow to return for the anniversary
Pashupatinath Aarya Ghat (a series of steps
leading to a body of water) (KSS)
These young men are searching for gold items that
may have been placed with a body before cremation
A cremation worker makes sure the fire is burning
properly; afterwards the family may be given a urn with
ashes, but usually the whole of the cremation is
swept into what is considered the sacred river, since
even if the family takes ashes, they will immerse them in
water somewhere, perhaps in the Ganges River in India
Pashupatinath Aarya Ghat Bridge
Supposedly these are false sadhus (holy persons who have
renounced the worldly life); however, these men have
dressed up for photo ops in exchange for money tips
So how does one know a real sadhu?
Pashupatinath Akadash Rudra Shivalaya Temple with
a row of eleven Shivalayas, each containing a Shivalinga/
sign of Shiva or the combination of the lingam and yoni
Looking through the eleven temples
So Jerry and Swan are posing with a "real" sadhu?
Another Shiva temple ...
... and here we can better see the Shivalinga
Bamboo stretcher upon which lies the body to be cremated
Family members carry the accoutrements 
required for the ritual of cremation
Royal ghat of Pashupatinath Temple
Pashupatinath Temple (1696) is the
pagoda temple behind the white gate,
dedicated to the Lord of Animals
incarnation of Shiva; only Hindus
of South Asia may enter the temple
Gate to Pashupatinath Temple with an
image of Pashupati, who is considered
the national deity of Nepal
Funeral purification rite of sprinkling
water from the river onto the body (KSS)
Family members move the body onto
the covered bamboo stretcher (KSS)
Other bodies are lined up for cremation
More Rhesus macaques
Snacks of chatpatay or jhalmuri/spiced
puffed rice and puchka or pani puri/
a deep-fried hollow breaded shell
to be filled with a mix of potato,
onions, chickpeas and spices
All the taxis in town were Suzuki Alto models