Tuesday, October 15, 2024

2024 Road Scholar XV: Kathmandu Durbar Square (10/15/2024)

Tuesday, October 15, 2024 (continued)
Next we headed to Kathmandu in holiday traffic
Dharahara Tower (1832, rebuilt 2018-2021
after the 2015 earthquake) was originally
a military watchtower (KSS)
Durbar High School (est 1854 as an English high school
for royalty, opened to the public in 1902, rebuilt 2002
after the 2015 earthquake); on the wall note the
six-pointed stars called shatkona, a Hindu symbol 
representing the union of Purusha (the supreme being),
and Prakriti (mother nature) (KSS)
This time for lunch we also had momos/dumplings
that were more traditionally shaped than in Tibet,
served with a spicy hot "sauce"
We walked through a jewelry district to Durbar Square
Yes, this is Kathmandu's royal palace
in their Durbar/Palace Square
Hanuman Dhoka/royal palace (founded 4-8 CE,
expanded 17C) once had 17 courtyards, now 10
Carved wooden windows and Naga/serpent decoration (KSS)
The palace has four towers around the 
Lohan Chowk/courtyard, each in a
unique style and representing four
ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley;
this is the eight-sided Bhaktapur Tower
Patan/Lalitpur Tower (SE corner) (KSS)
Kirtipur Tower with a copper roof dome
on the NW corner (KSS)
Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower is on the
SW corner, but is seen here from
another courtyard/Nasal Chowk
Lohan Chowk carved wooden windows (KSS)
Lohan Chowk is named for this particular stone that
serves as an aniconic (no image) place of worship,
and also covers an image of a tortoise placed as
part of the foundation-laying ceremony
Now in Nasal Chowk with more carved
windows and an open veranda with a throne
The throne of the Malla kings
Nasal Chowk doorway with eyes
Shrine to the Dancing Shiva;
Nasal means dancing in Nepali
I think there is a relief of a dancing
Shiva behind the bell chain (KSS)
The palanquin that carried Queen Aishwarya to her
wedding to soon-to-be King Birendra in 1970
The palanquin that carried Queen Aishwarya to her
cremation in 2001 after she along with eight other members
of the royal family were massacred under mysterious
circumstances; although it appeared that the right-handed
crown prince did the shooting, then shot himself in the
left-side of his head; meanwhile, the man who ended
up becoming king was absent from the family event
Panch Mukhi Hanuman Temple
with five circular roofs in pagoda style
Tamiko & Kent with a Gurkha palace
guard in vintage uniform, and yes,
they all wear yellow socks
Statue (1673) of Narsingha, Vishnu
in his man-lion incarnation 
disemboweling a demon (KSS)
Platform in the center of Nasal Chowk was
used for coronations
Back in Durbar Square, Kumari Bahal (1757), home of
Kumari, a girl selected to be town's living goddess
and symbol of devi/Hindu female spiritual energy
Kumari shows herself at the golden-
framed window for a two hours each day
The chariot that carries Kumari during
the Indra Jatra Festival sits behind
these doors to the right of her abode
Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple was
rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake, as
well as its twin to the north,
Maju Dega Temple (KSS)
Gaddhi Baithak (1908, in neoclassical style that was
popular during the Rana dynasty), part of the royal palace
Furniture delivery service
Shiva-Parvati Temple (18C, survived the 2015
earthquake) has white figures of Shiva and
his consort Parvati in an upstairs window
The Kathmandu Durbar Square is more of an L-shape, and
we have turned right along the west wall of the palace
to see the pagoda of the Bhagwati Temple
The shops below Bhagwati Temple sell paubha/the
Nepali/Newari equivalent of Tibetan thangkas
King Pratap Malla Column (1670) in front of
Jagannath Temple, with multiple other temples
Jagannath Temple (c 1653)
Image of Seto/White Bhairava behind the grille of
a pavilion facing the King Pratap Malla Column
Butter lamps in front of Kala/Black Bhairava
Kala/Black Bhairava, which is supposed
to be carved from a single stone; it is also
said that if you tell a lie while standing
in front of him, then instant death
Kageswor Mahadev Temple (1711,
rebuilt after 1934 earthquake)
Narayana Temple, dedicated to Vishnu,
is an example of the most common
type of temple
Kotilingeshwar Mahadev Temple (16C,
in gumbhaj style) is dedicated to Shiva
In the second story open area are
the Great Drums that were used to
warn the city of danger
The octagonal Vamshal Gopal Temple
(rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake)
is dedicated to Krishna
Lakshmi Narayan Sattal/pilgrim's hostel with markey
Kasthamandap/Wooden Pavilion was rebuilt after the
2015 earthquake, and serves as a marketplace, 
council hall, pilgrim's rest house, and social center;
it is said the original was built from the wood
of a single Shorea robusta/Sal Tree in 1200 CE
Sugar cane and fruit stand
Snack shop; chips were sold in
pillows of air, which seemed to
help keep them whole
Checked into The Soaltee Kathmandu Hotel
Hotel room
Hotel bathroom
Tub and shower

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