Tuesday, October 15, 2024

2024 Road Scholar XIII: Bhaktapur Durbar Square (10/15/2024)

Tuesday, October 15, 2024
We checked out of the Dhulikhel Mountain Resort to drive back to Kathmandu. First we stopped at Bhaktapur, which we had skipped on Sunday, having run out of time. 
The roadside plants were covered with dirt
and dust from all the holiday traffic
Evidence of mudslides from September
Roadside shrine with rickety access
These buildings will be the next to go
in another monsoon-type rain
A gas station in Banepa
Terraced fields
Fruit stand
In Bhaktapur, we began to walk to
Durbar/Palace Square
Indrayani Temple at an ancient Pipal tree
We took the stairs, and motorbikes
used the ramp
Embroidered and fringed hangings
Kauma Tole/square hiti/drinking fountain
Shrine at the Kauma Tole hiti
Gate to Durbar Square, which is full of temples
as well as the former royal palace
Tamiko in front of a gateway flanked by two stone lions,
and reliefs of two Hindi deities (KSS)
Ugrachandi (a manifestation of Durga)
with 18 arms holding Tantric weapons
and a cup made from a human skull,
as she slays a demon with her
 trident, symbolizing the victory
of wisdom over ignorance
Bhairava (a fearsome manifestation
of Shiva) is holding weapons such as
a trident, sword, drum, and skull,
for the destruction of evil
A substitute of one of the Char Dham
temples: Rameshwar Temple (south) (KSS)
There are four Char Dham temples in India, one at each of the extreme cardinal points of the country. If one cannot make the pilgrimage to all four temples in India, they may earn merit to making a pilgrimage around the four substitute temples located at the west end of Durbar Square!
The Char Dham substitute of
Kedernath Temple (west); this temple
is built in the shikhara-style (KSS)
Kedernath Temple is dedicated to Shiva
and the image is covered in tika
Cham Dam substitute for Jagannath
Temple (east) in pagoda style,
which originated in Bhaktapur before
600 CE, characterized by multiple
roofs in descending size (KSS)
The roof struts of Jagannath Temple are carved with
different manifestations of Vishnu (KSS)
In front of Jagannath Temple is a 
statue of Garuda, a sunbird and king
of the birds, who acts as the
transport vehicle for Vishnu (KSS)
Part of the Royal Palace that is now the National Art Gallery
Pilgrims rub tika (mixture of rice,
yogurt and vermilion) on a sculpture
of Hanuman, a monkey god who
is devoted to Rama
Children on bicycles take advantage of the
large empty square
Another section of the Royal Palace, and an example
of the many dogs in the square (KSS)
The Golden Gate (1754 with finest repoussé metalwork)
and a brick gatehouse are the entrance into the palace
No photography was allowed inside the palace, and only Hindus could enter the temple.
We could photograph the Naga Pokhari/water tank from
the 17th century that was used for ritual immersion of
the figure of Taleju (goddess chosen as protector of the
Malla kings) and perhaps for the king's ablutions (KSS)
The dhara/spout is in the form of a goat being eaten
by a makara/mythical crocodile-like creature (KSS)
Column topped by the figure of King
Bhupatindra Malla (1699) faces
the Golden Gate of the palace
Talehu Bell (1737) used to call to prayer
Vatsala Durga Temple was completely
destroyed in the 2015 earthquake
and has been rebuilt including the 
smaller bell known as the "barking
 bell" because its ringing caused
dogs to bark and whine (KSS)
The Vatsala Durga Temple hiti/sunken
drinking fountain with a makara spout (KSS)
Chyasilin Mandap/Pavilion with an
eight-cornered roof where the king
and his guests watched festival
activities on the square
A bronze lion guards the pavilion (KSS)
The 55-Window Palace (1677) with intricately
carved wooden windows
Siddhi Lakshmi Temple was also rebuilt,
however, the stone animals are original
The 17C statues include a male and female attendants leading
a child and a dog, a pair of horses, a pair of rhinos wearing
garlands, a pair of human-faced lions, and a pair of camels
A large pair of curly-haired lions in front of rebuilt
Silu Mahadev Temple, the tallest temple in Durbar Square
We heard music and chanting, then along
came a line of samaneras/novice monks;
the novice carrying the speaker took
a short cut across the square (KSS)
The novices carried alms bowl for donations
of either money or food
The novices were lined up by size
Next: Other Squares of Bhaktapur.

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