2024 Road Scholar XVII: Pashupatinath Temple (10/16/2024)

Wednesday, October 16, 2024 (continued)

[Warning: There are cremation scenes in this post.]

After breakfast, we boarded the bus for our excursion 
to Pashupatinath Temple on the east side of Kathmandu

Passed the statue of Tribhuvan Shah,
who became King of Nepal at the age of
five when the role was largely ceremonial

The governing power was in the hands of the Rana family who held the position of prime minister and other important government roles, which were passed on to sons. The king supported popular efforts to overthrow the Ranas, and had to seek asylum in India. This led to demonstrations by the people against the Ranas, who decided to seek an agreement with King Tribhuvan Shah. With new ministers chosen by the king in 1951, the Ranas were put on an equal basis with the Nepali Congress. However, the king died in 1955 and was replaced by his son, who dismantled his father's attempts for democracy.

Matighar Mandala (2001, to showcase Nepali culture
during a South Asia Association for Regional
Cooperation/SAARC summit meeting in Kathmandu) 

Tika powders in a rainbow of colors

Likely these items are for celebrating anniversaries
of a loved one's death/cremation

Very large prayer beads

Four-faced marionettes

Macaca mulatta/Rhesus Macaque mother and child;
these monkeys kept away from visitors

Across the Bagmati River is a
45-degree Shivalinga, which is tilted
at an  angle and I am guessing
that is why it is so-named

The Shivalinga ... apparently it is we Westerners who have simplified the lingam into a phallic representation of the god Shiva, and the yoni as a gateway of birth and representation of Shiva's consort, Shakti. Together they represent a union for creation. However, unlike some Christians, Hindus have fully embraced science, and believe the Shivalinga represents the universe. They say that Vishnu is a proton with a positive charge, Shiva is a neutron, Brahma is an electron with a negative charge, and Shakti is energy.

Bhasmeshwor Temples, sattals/pilgrim
shelters, and an active funeral pyre (KSS)

On the Hindu death anniversary, traditionally the eldest
son will shave his head and pay homage to the departed one,
by making offerings of food (usually a cooked rice ball
and water) and praying to his ancestors; offerings are
also made to crows as it is believed the ancestors
take the form of a crow to return for the anniversary

Pashupatinath Aarya Ghat (a series of steps
leading to a body of water) (KSS)

These young men are searching for gold items that
may have been placed with a body before cremation

A cremation worker makes sure the fire is burning
properly; afterwards the family may be given a urn with
ashes, but usually the whole of the cremation is
swept into what is considered the sacred river, since
even if the family takes ashes, they will immerse them in
water somewhere, perhaps in the Ganges River in India

Pashupatinath Aarya Ghat Bridge

Supposedly these are false sadhus (holy persons who have
renounced the worldly life); however, these men have
dressed up for photo ops in exchange for money tips

So how does one know a real sadhu?

Pashupatinath Akadash Rudra Shivalaya Temple with
a row of eleven Shivalayas, each containing a Shivalinga/
sign of Shiva or the combination of the lingam and yoni

Looking through the eleven temples

So Jerry and Swan are posing with a "real" sadhu?

Another Shiva temple ...

... and here we can better see the Shivalinga

Bamboo stretcher upon which lies the body to be cremated

Family members carry the accoutrements 
required for the ritual of cremation

Royal ghat of Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath Temple (1696) is the
pagoda temple behind the white gate,
dedicated to the Lord of Animals
incarnation of Shiva; only Hindus
of South Asia may enter the temple

Gate to Pashupatinath Temple with an
image of Pashupati, who is considered
the national deity of Nepal

Funeral purification rite of sprinkling
water from the river onto the body (KSS)

Family members move the body onto
the covered bamboo stretcher (KSS)

Other bodies are lined up for cremation

More Rhesus macaques

Snacks of chatpatay or jhalmuri/spiced
puffed rice and puchka or pani puri/
a deep-fried hollow breaded shell
to be filled with a mix of potato,
onions, chickpeas and spices

All the taxis in town were Suzuki Alto models